Motorcycle Diary

Friend of mine recently got himself a bike and he planning on moving to California.

He asked how my bike is. 

Here is my response. 

"She just broke couple new records. Debating whether to get her shoes after our big trip of before. got her a raincoat. she tested it and she likes it. she is nervous if I wold dump her someday.... well it's just between you and me, she doesn't know this... from the moment we laid eyes on each other, we knew we would get along great but our relationship has an expiration date as I have with all things with wheels."


Friday, I took off work earlier than usual and went on a camping trip with Kari. Friday afternoon traffic was worse than I had anticipated so we had less time together in the day light. 

After we set up our tents, we got some groceries. As soon as we got back to our campsite, it started raining and it rained all night long. Thankfully, when we awoke, rain stopped and we enjoyed nice mountain curvy road. However, that did not last long. As we had expected from the weather report, 50% chance of rain caught up to us  and we stopped curvy road and headed home on the freeway. 

By the time we reached city limit, rain had stopped and we said our farewell. 

On my way back from the camping trip. I made my visit to 아름. She was extra affectionate and clingy. Also I got to see her bad manner side. It was not pretty. This was my first visiting her home. I noticed her energy doesn't last long and she needs frequent nap. She had a big bruise on her forehead from falling during her attempt to run. It seemed normal to me to cross boundaries, challenge and living on the edge. Bruise is quite natural. 

Upon leaving 아름 weather was warm and sunny once again. I got off the freeway and ventured to the path where I have not beaten on. As always, it is more fun. Scenic routes of green, yellow and red natures. Red and brown birds. Fellow riders. Old historic buildings and run down local homes. Reminded me of riding in Colombia. 

It was peaceful, calm and quiet. It's just me and the road with music in my ears. 

When I filled up the tank, I was surprised how little of gas I had to put in to fill her up. After calculation, it was 63 mpg. I couldn't believe my eyes that I ran it again. It made me very happy. What a drastic change when I just in motor's comfort zone?  

Kari tells me her bike is more stable than her old sportser even though I see her more struggle to maneuver her new bike. My sportster already feels light to me and I am definitely ready for something bigger and my eyes are on V-rod or Fat Boy.

Front tire is becoming bold and I don't know how much longer she can handle. Arriving close to home, I almost fell off and could have crashed very severely. I was turning corner bit wild but controlled, yet rear started falling off, bike started leaning too low and without thinking, my right leg reacted and stepped on the ground, of course due to the fast speed, my right foot was kicked off instantly and stopped by the saddle bag. It happened so quickly that I questioned how did I regain balance and not fall. Did I give more gas while pushing the bike off with the right foot all unconsciously only with muscle memory? Did God save me or was it his trick to remind me to stay humble? Could I have remembered that I used my right foot without feeling pain on right ankle after the impact? If I didn't feel any pain, I would not have noticed... Then again, my ankle should have been damaged yet it is completely fine. 

Prediction for this week weather seem wet. Good thing I bought that cover. I tested it today. Thick. big enough to cover the entire bike. Water proof. Yet. It's another addition to possession. This settled life is increasing things slowly, creeping upon me...

Had a long conversation with mother about my principle on minimalist life.

Couchsurfing

More I experience CS, more joyful it becomes. I get to meet some of the most extraordinary and unique minded people.it is capturing and addiciting.

I had my third surfer stay for four days. Her name is Kanako Noda. I called her Kanakosan.
She spoke as good of English as I speak Spanish. The four days were filled with activities.
First day we went to Epcot. We shared small talk. Due to lack of fluency in Kanako's English, we converse slowly, with patience and choosing our words carefully. We both speak slowly and very clearly. I am careful to not get carried on talking incessantly because I will lose her. She pays attention and when I lose her she stops me and ask me to repeat. Sometimes we are forced to use a dictionary. I am used to this from learning English and Spanish. I understand what she is going through. We give each other space. We do not rush to fill the silence with empty words.
We share difference between eastern and western culture. We share difference and common grounds between Korea and Japan. We know shared history between Japan and Korea. She know about media richness such as Kpop, Korean dramas, Japanese animation, kimchi and sushi. We talk about where we are headed in near future as well as down the road from now. Yet richest drone we share is what is front of us; exploring Disney world.

It was her first time in her life to ride a motorcycle, yet she feels brave or comfortable enough to fall asleep on it. I only know one other person who can do that. Surprisingly Kanako is night owl just like me, we stayed up till 3am and wake up 8am to go back to Disney animal kingdom. This time my excitement for animals show, talking with Disney people who hold each animal information responsible are my favorite people. We talk about their behavior, origin, food they eat, how they grow and their rarity in the world and it is so fascinating. I could just stand their talk about animals forever. More rare they are more I am interested. Especially if I have never seen it. I am losing Kanako so we move. We chase after tiger to have a closer look.

I take her to downtown Orlando to show her club scene. She has never been in a club in her life. She stop by every bars and clubs. Not surprising, she likes the karaoke bar the best. There we meet some Korean loving frenzy people, drunk and incessantly asking me to sing Gangnam style and it's dance. I politely refuse but eventually give in except I dance my usual running man and shuffle. Attempt newly practiced move glide, but failed. Kanako doesn't dance so we go home and have a mid night snack, Korean ramen. It's too spicy for her. I guess Japanese and Korean don't share that spicy taste.

She is the first japanse person that I got to know. I see the reserved side in her, the way many westerners expect Asians to behave. Yet, she is not shy to ask questions and have difficult conversations.

Third day we go for a ride to Sarasota, on the way we stopped by my new Korean friend and Fabrizio. Fabrizio joins for the ride to Sarasota. There we share a pitcher of beer at daquiry deck and meet up with his friend Sunnie and ride out to the beach. After watching sunset, we ride fast toward Tampa to see annual pirate parade and it is crazy. Road is blocked for parade and sidewalks are filled with people block after block. It's like new Orleans Mardi GRAS that I saw on tv. Beads being thrown, slutty outfit, pirate outfit, makeups, loud music, aggressive drunk people yelling "show him your tits" I invite Dustin, but couldn't meet due to madness on the street. We head back home, shivering through cold wind blowing at us going 80mph on I-4. We are cold and tired. We have not slept much. We both get on our iPads and iPhone and have time to ourselves.
I remember my days of traveling when I always needed some time to myself to check email, CS and facebook to organize near future plan for the travel. When she is ready to mingle, she comes find me and we talk. Show some of our pictures in our phones.

Fourth day is a chill day, we sleep in a bit. Visit local park and go for a long walk. I teach her Spanish because she is going to Peru and Bolivia soon. I teacher some of the most essential for travel. Bathroom, ordering food, hello, good bye, numbers and please. She learns fast and has great memorizing skill.

Saying good bye was difficult than anticipated. We bonded, we became friends and will be maintain touch in the future.

I think of my past hosts in Mexico, venezuela and Colombia. We exchange long messages on FB. Tell each other on our experiences that we did not tell or shared in the reference on CS.

Motorcycle diary 3

Fabrizio and I went on a motorcycle ride to southern Florida visiting fort Myers, cypress park, Everglades national park, Miami beach and key west while couchsurfing.

On Thursday morning I called Elizabeth. Our first host in fort Myers. Based on her profile I knew that she only host people with perfect safe surfers. I could tell from the profile pictures and amount of references they had. When I called her she told me that she did not get my response. I was annoyed for CS app not working properly but I told her I am coming and she said ok. When I called her once I arrived in st Petersburg, she did not respond so I sent her a text. When we arrived in her town she did not respond. So I go to Starbucks to write her I see a her message with a decline. I noticed a pattern with host from key west. First they accept but due to my delay in response they change their mind. Definitely different from traveling in Latin America or Georgia then again I was traveling alone and I don't have to wait for my fellow traveler to approve or respond to host. Later I realized fabrizio is so laid back that I could have just planned the whole trip based on my wants he wouldn't mind.

So at 7:30pm we don't have a couch and I found a cheap motel for $40. In the mean time fabrizio contacted a host who hosted same people he did. Larry who lives in school bus responded right away and let is sleep on his sailboat. He chatted his motorcycle travel for three summers 70k miles, insufficiency of money for travel And fellow travelers. He made us rice and beans I bought beer and carrot. He did not drink beer. I was grateful for his kindness. He wants to ride his bicycle to visit his son while visiting fabrizio and me on the way. Welcome I said.

Next morning. I had my biometrics appointment done and headed off to Miami. We went through cypress park and part of Everglades. Saw alligators and many species of birds. It was sunny. No helmet. Took pictures. Enjoyed. Took another picture with dead alligator, visited alligator and fish hatchery place where there were bunch. Saw couple birds snatching fish out of the water. Saw many bikers and of course say hi with left hand when we see each other on opposite side. I love doing that.

Fabrizio found us host in Miami. A guy who used to live in st Petersburg. He lives in pent house in Hollywood by the beach. I was surprised. He told story when he sold his $150k stock option and bought a club spending $60k but making $30k profit a month then shut the club down because business went sour and went broke. It was cool and inspiring. He is 53 years old but had a energy of 30 year old. He treated us with beer and food then we went out and had more beers and appetizer. Then morning fed us breakfast. That was the first time someone was very hospitable materialistic way. He talked about insufficiency of money, travel in Central America and our next host we are going to meet in key west because he hosted him. He talked about CS activity and group meetings that he hosts. Yet I was most inspired by his story of owning club and shutting it down. When I rode through Miami beach and conversation with rob helped me understand materialistic world of Miami and USA. These are things that Angelica see USA as. It is quite different from northwest where people are richer yet show less. Different values. I hate the talk of money. It's like my hosts are wonderful fun and interesting plate of delicious dinner and ruin it with putting too much of one seasoning. I remember Jose and Angelica and how great they were. Few conversation, no background history conversation only in present moment and we get along.

I was appreciative of rob for what he did and I want to write him a sincere reference. Spending time with Larry rob and fabrizio along with CS experience gave me much deeper insight to hosts perspective which I am about to start on Monday with nia from Austria., I told them about her and they are worrisome and skeptical. However I still want to host her and see it for myself because my intuition tells me that its going to be ok if not great.

Late morning today we headed off to key west. Seeing beautiful scenic routes and warm weather, minor traffic due to 150 miles relay run race. Long bridges, beautiful colored ocean, taking more riding pictures. Fabrizio and I get along great, we don't talk much we just ride decisions are made fast and both us are flexible and easy going.,

We met our host in key west. He is from Serbia and well traveled and well experienced in CS. He was cooking in the kitchen to serve many people. We got to eat. He accepted long time ago to my request then he said he couldn't and told me he could show us free camping spot. After getting to know each other in the church chatting and eating together he welcomed us to his house. Fabrizio and I give off good vibe I can tell. It throws people off with our leather jackets and loud bikes then they warm up to us. It's different experience then when I travel alone. Yet same with bike when people see me first time with my bike and outfit distancing themselves until I open lips and lose my bike gears. It was same with Amy, Jenny but not with keary.

Mirco, our host in key west is going to take us to an island tomorrow. He is going to hop on fabrizios bike. Today I taught him how to ride a motorcycle and he rode my bike around the block. He had trouble shifting gears. But I was glad that he didn't drop it.

Tomorrow all day we will chill on key and head off to greet and welcome my first surfer at my home on Monday

Of I got hella burned from sun and my face show tan line from sunglasses

Top best travel film

Motorcycle diaries
Into the wild
The way
Y tu mama tambien
One week
180 south

The giant mechanical man (not a travel film)

Motorcycle diary 2

Motorcycle diary 2
Dec 23 2012

I am physically exhausted. Have sore throat. Slept in until 3pm. Feel cold.

So i have been in search for a permanent home. When I was in Albany Ga. I thought I found one in leesburg. But turned out to be not an ideal home. One mattress. Super cold room. Owner had nothing. He gave me Five sheets But don't fit to mattress. Nothing in the kitchen. Not even salt and pepper. Just owners pots and pans and few silverware. Normally when you are renting this is no big deal. People already own furnitures but I don't do I looked under room share section of the Craigslist for ready furnished place. Bottom line is I don't like this place. So I rent it for a week and search for new home again.

On 21st, I finally find two but its already 5pm. Houses are both close to each other but two hours away from me. Which forces me to ride in the dark in a cold night. The cold night part I underestimated it was one of the coldest night around here. My direction took me to toll high way. It was annoying to keep pulling over to pay, it's not as simple as driving a car and reaching over the cup holder for coins while still driving.

I visit the first house. It was beautiful. Nice neighborhood. Paying hundred more than what I am and makes huge difference. 25 guy who has landscaping business lives there and it's his fathers house. Second house was nice too. Owner does not live there 5 bed rooms three people living. He liked me I could tell GE just talked for an hour about house life money. But he was a control freak even told me his Myers Briggs letters INTJ then he told me he is extroverted.

Ride back was so cold. My hands and lower body felt numb. Upper body only I had multi layer. Under armor, two shirts, leather jacket and peacoat.

I got back home. Frozen up. Put the left over food on the stove and took a hot shower.

Yesterday. I got out of the house at 5:40am to go to west palm beach. Turns out my map direction took me to bunch of till roads. Yesterday annoying experience taught me not to get in those. There are plenty of good free roads. This got me way far behind schedule. This time I put on my rain gear for extra warmth. I just went east until I hit interstate 95. By the time I got there sun was about 45 angle up in the sky. I packed away my rain gear, had a coffee and sausage biscuit at McDonald and recalculated ETA. I was going to be forty min late. But that thought went away when I got on the freeway. Speed limit is 70. But everyone was going 80-85. I followed this car that was going 90. This was fastest I have been on this bike or on any motorcycle. It was windy, shaky, pushing me left and right. I had to look out for bumps and lines, pay attention to curves and any cars on the side may cut me, cars coming behind me, check for break lights for sudden stops, construction zone weird lanes and land marking and of course state patrol. Funny thing was two state patrol did not pull me or other speeding cars over. I saw two sheriffs pass me when I was going 80 at one point.

So I made it to my destination 20 min late, getting 45 mpg which is terrible, usual is 55-57mpg, only to be disappointed. Ugly messy house in ugly neighborhood. Room had refrigerator and microwave and bathroom but she just wanted me to use that and live the door to house locked while using other door to go in and outside. When I asked her about kitchen she said no and that was the deal breaker.

By this time I was warm and glad to be in southern Florida. I get a call from second house land lord saying she Misinterpreted message and now there won't be anyone to show me the house. I said I woke up 5am to look this house then she goes "but you were looking at houses right?" Manipulative. But I looked at the house anyway. Gated community. Ok looking small house. It did feel homey. Looked like they moved in yesterday and already their own way set up and I didn't like it. I assumed utility bill of $150 for a tiny house and then $120 for wifi a lie. I was disappointed. Found some leads. So I followed it. He was not home and did kit answer the phone. Later he called when I was about to enter freeway but I didn't answer.

By this time it's around
1:30pm had to decide whether to go to fabrizio s pot luck in st Petersburg which starts at 2pm and takes four hours to get there or go to Miami to check out another place. I chose Miami and rode another 1.5hrs. Funny thing happened. My phone is dead. Which it shouldn't have been. I had plenty of battery only thing u could think of was dropping it in McDonald. I plugged it in and waited and waited no response I was saying good bye to this phone. Luckily I remembered the address and by reading street signs and grid system found the house. Nobody was there. Ghetto neighborhood. Ghetto apartment. There were four I knocked on all of them nobody answered. I went to McDonald again to see if my phone would work but no. There everyone spoke Spanisg. Kids yelling in Spanish, lady making order and the guy taking the order all. There was even a girl with backpack selling music CDs for a dollar! Old man next to me playing with his new lap top talking in Spanish. Then I had to go to bathroom and I asked him."señor yo voy al bano puede ciudad Mia cosas?" He was surprised but understood everything. People around looked at me. I was not sure if it was because I was the only Asian there or because I spoke Spanish. It's the look I was exposed to for a year throughout travel. Outsider, foreigner, tourist, traveler, non local, etc. no luck. I checked out downtown but feared for cold weather ride back and rushed back north. I went fast on I-95 Witt lasting warmth and sun on my left hiding away leaving me with darkness and chill.

I stopped at gas station to get a coffee and put on my rain gear when I couldn't bear the cold no more.

With no phone, no map, I had to figure out my way back home. It's only been two days I lived there. I was not certain how to trace back. I relied on signs and my intuition and yes I made it back all in one piece getting better at dealing with cold and where and how to cover myself. Going to the bodies exhibit was very helpful because now I know where big arteries are and leaving them cold is fatal to maintenance of body temperature. My legs chills the blood and chest warns the blood.

I had a cold beer and had left over soup and passed out.


After 600+ miles ride and half in cold weather, a beer and chicken soup hit shower
When I awoke I had a sore throat and have not left bed for three hours.

MOtorcycle diary

Motorcycle diary

For the first time I went on a ride as a group. I was always curious and imagined what it would be like. This could only happen in US.

It all happened because I met Kari. Kari is a friend of terisa, my first couchsurfing host in USA. When I told terisa that I am going to buy a harley to travel across US, She immediately thought of Kari and introduced us on the phone. Kari rode her Harley and travels across US. she couchsurfered and pitched tent and rode her sportster 1200 for 14,000km. She faced near death situations, blown tired, snow storm and meeting many kind bikers.

When I arrived in Atlanta, I reached her it and drove to her house, she conversed about our travel stories and passion for bike. When she was telling her long detailed story about her road trip I was all ears, especially the part about failing to make it to yellow stone. There'd was so much snow that she was prohibited to enter, she showed me the picture of her bike surrounded by snow. This was most audacious, daring, adventuresome part of her story. As a girl traveling alone, pitching tents to sleep and majority of the time cold. She travels seven months across US and he trip began in sept.

I remember crossing mountains in Colombia and Ecuador and how freezing cold it was, feeling numbness in my legs and hands. Shivering my whole body for hours and hours, desperate for anything hot.

Before her journey she lost hundred pounds though dedicated weight loss program, diet and exercise.

So clearly she is a cool person and she promised to go on a ride together.

So after staying with Keary (CS host in Atlanta, real cool guy and we got along well) for a week, I packed my stuff in my two saddle bags and headed toward Kari's house to surf for couple days and hang out with her for Saturday and Sunday.

Today is Saturday. As soon as I arrived at her driveway, I unpacked my saddle bags and rode out to meet with her friend who rides fat boy. His bike was huge and fat. Fat tires, seats, frame, everything.

Kari s friend took a lead, Kari followed then me. We followed each other diagonally from each other. I watched way they handled corner, brake usage, clutch usage, posture and acceleration.

We went and I was cold. It's definitely my pants. I need two layers for my legs. They laughed when I put on my peacoat over my leather jacket. I liked it because I was not advertising harley Davison on my clothing and being not a typical biker all leathered out.

We stopped at the viewpoint top of the mountain. We stood there and conversed bout our travel stories, accidents and passion for bikes. There three bikers there. They were on BMW and Ducati. Enduring and touting bikes. We did not talk to them nor did they talk to us.

We ended our journey and Kari and I came back to her house. By the time we got back we were seriously cold and tired from the cold weather. But we still managed to hit up the cool house club/bar where keary and I went to.

Im looking forward to my road trip back to Florida.

Bolivia - salar d uyuni

Salar d uyuni

Journey in Bolivia just gotten better. From the Santa Cruz to get to the uyuni is to go to potosi but we missed the bus and were advised to wait a day. It would have been a good idea because I found a Korean grocery store where they sell kimchi, Korean ramen, tofu and many other goods. Angelica was as excited as I was when I brought her tofu and kimchi and told her my discovery. But I didn't have anymore desire to stay in Santa crUz. By this time I am feeling that my travel time is running out and I wanted to be in the desert as soon as possible. Plus I was really for the idea to rent a car to explore the desert.

Since we missed the bus to potosi, we took a bus to tarija. Road condition was relatively nice. It was peaceful town. We found hostel with a kitchen and made Korean pancake. The lady I bought green onion from gave me so much for e little money that I gave her. With that I made enough pancake to feed ten people which means we had lots of left over had it over dinner breakfast and lunch.
Tarija had great produces, temperatures was warm. We even went to a fancy restaurant and had delicious vegetarian pizza and used wifi for few hours.

When were ready to leave tarija, we faced a problem. At the bus terminal there are no direct bus to uyuni where we can enter the desert. We were advised to go to potosi. We did not like that idea at all because we would be back tracking. Thankfully we have a Colombiana who speaks native Spanish and found a alternative route to go to tupiza and from there we can go to uyuni.

What do you know? Tupiza is also by the desert and they offered tours to the desert. We arrived 6am and we looked around and walked around everywhere to rent a car. There were no official companies renting cars. Only the random guy at the street offering a ridiculous price. At the end we finally gave in and decided to do the tour. We checked out few places. Majority of tours were leaving at 8am. So we were being rushed to come to a decision.

Every places we went prices were similar plus minus of $10, all suggesting four day tour, same route and same program (food, accommodation).

When we got to place called La torre. Lady offered the significantly lower price. She told us that all the tour companies had agreement to keep the price same. She said couple people fell out and she is trying to fill the spots and asked us not to tell any locals about it.

I was inclined to just do it. However, Angelica was tired. Road from tarija to tupiza was all bumpy dirt road. We assumed if she can give us this price today then she can give us the same price tomorrow as well even though she said it was just for today.

After checking into the hostel, we checked out more tours but we didn't find a way to rent a car nor cheaper tour. So Angelica went back to la torre and asked same old lady to take us tomorrow for same discounted price she offered but she said no.

Next morning an hour before their departure I asked her to give a tour for the same price and she agreed. When all of us got there with our bags, we raised price from what we originally agreed on. It was not. Huge amount but I was annoyed that she lied to my face.

On top of that she was lying to this girl to pressure her to go on tour same day as us. I didn't want anymore people because I wanted space in the car. Alex used to have Toyota Landcruiser and third row seats are small and have tiny leg room. This girl was American and she wanted to go with her fri end next day but the owner lady from the la torre would lie to her and say that we really want her to go with us so we can pay less. Tupiza, all tour companies had their price structure where more people go less you pay. So if you are a single traveler you just have to wait it out and see if more people will come and if you are on a tight busy schedule then expected to pay significantly large amount.

Since the owner does not speak English, I told her the truth and we both got what we wanted. Now it's time to pay. I asked to pay with my card and she said there is 10% charge. Which means I would pay extra $30usd. I didn't like that so I went to ATM and that is when I learned that I had lost my debit card, most likely in tarija. I looked every where but didn't find it. By the time I called the bank to close the cards it was 10am.

I dont have enough cash and didn't want to pay 10% fee. At this point I was feeling bad vibe from La torre tour and I was stressed and annoyed that I lost my debit card.. So I told her we can't do the tour today and she laid her desperation upon Angelica.

Lady was upset because now it is 10am, there is a single traveler who has been waiting for us three. I think she was upset by the fact that she lost out on money she could earn and she had already purchased food worth of three days. I felt bad was almost tempted to use my credit card despite high fee. But then she pissed me off by keep saying thAt $30 usd extra for credit card fee is nothing for me and I responded right away "para it, si" "for you, yes" at this point I was assuming that she said high credit card fee so she can keep the money to herself. Because I never saw credit card fee more than 5%.

I asked the driver to unload the bags off the Landcruiser. Because now I want to wait and transfer money over to my other bank, connecting my fidelity and new bank account would take minimum 4 days.

Here is when crazy things started happening. Owner lady who is pissed off, yelling "if you don't have money, don't travel" and when driver was handing Angelica her bag, she took it away and threw it at her face.

It made me more sad than angry. It was my fault to cancel the tour on her but at the same time, she is an entrepreneur which means she oversees the risk of running the business and this is her risk. Sometimes shit happens and her turning violent was unprofessional and I was sadden this unpleasant situation. It was especially tough on angelica who is always full of love and kind. After that we got on the bus to uyuni and Angelica did not talk until we arrived in uyuni. She was very hurt by it. I was too. I always want to get along with locals and help out the local economy and this was opposite of what we wanted.

In uyuni we met a cool guy named Nelson through couchsurfing and he let us stay in his hostel for free. He was knowledgeable and had his tour company and so we decided to go with his company. We liked Nelson a lot. He also liked a lot of Japanese and Korean culture, music, customs and we shared information and knowledge. He explained to us what Bolivians are like. Bolivians do not like foreigners and don't like to mix. They see foreigners as dirty ones because they are sexually open and they spread AIDS. I was shocked by this because foreigners probably practice safer sex was my opinion. When Bolivians travel, they travel short time but spend lots of money and go completely out of money, empty handed after their vacation. You travel, you spend the money and just enjoy and lie life is how they are. After talking to Nelson we all understood behavior of Bolivians from amazon to uyuni.

So our journey to the desert began.
Us three, two Japanese and two Australians. We all got along. They didn't speak Spanish. One austrailian spoke a little but not enough to listen. Our guide/driver was not nice. I did not like him. He was demanding and rushing. No customer service oriented attitude. Almost made the trip unpleasant. Everything had to go his way. Austrailian and Japanese followed. Every amazing stop we made, us three wanted to live that moment and absorb. This desert was the reason why I altered my travel plan. It was everything I expected, hoped for and more!!

It was best scenic view I had in all travels. It was incredible, mind blowing. We took some amazing pictures together. First night we stayed in salt hostel. The wall, chairs, table, bed frame and windows were all mad out of salt. Salt bricks and salt filling. They have to maintain it. I was kidding about the window. We were served with food and drink. tthis moment we were at 5000m and I was suffering serious altitude sickness. I drank several cups of coca tea and chew bags of coca and then went to sleep. In the morning I felt fine, but at the end of the day altitude sickness reoccurred. I having a very bad headache. I didn't talk to anyone. Did not complain, nor did I talk. Angelica did not like this. Ben was fine. He is used to me being this way.

During the day I was ok, at night I was in pain. This pain carried on even in uyuni when we returned. It was weird because I was fine initially in uyuni.

I smoked some pot to ease the pain and made it worse.

That night we stayed in Nelson s hostel again.

Everyone went to bed, Angelica and I stayed outside. She had something important to say. It was a breakup talk. She said she will go south and no longer travel together. She told me many reasons. I was shocked. I kind of expected this two cities before uyuni but I thought she had changed her mind and decided to travel together until cusco. I was very sad. We talked and talked, but as I have been in this situation with Abby. I gave angelica space and respected her decision, instead in actions I told her that I still want her to stay and continue to travel together. Next day, she were coping pictures from my iPhone and Ben s ipod to her computer. Mood was very serious.

Angelica was on the fence at this moment and left it up to Ben. Ben first said that we should all split up. Ben goes to chile and I go on my way toward US. Then few seconds later he changed his mind and said lets travel together a bit longer.

So we did and together headed toward sucre. We rested in sucre, enjoyed the most developed city in Bolivia, we cooked lots of food, ate lots of ice cream, walked around, played with henna tattoo, played arcade games, waxed our shoes, sleep in, hot shower, wifi, etc. after month of amazon trip and desert trip and everything in between, we were just excited to do all those normal daily activity of urban place.

Angelica wants to ride a motorcycle in the desert and explore the desert on her own and so do I.

Ecuador

Rented a car to explore ecuador and look for ayahuasca with Ben.
Good thing that country is small, gas is cheap and rental price was not ridiculous like Bolivia and Peru.
Out of 7 days, slept in a car for one day.

Crazy experience... Hmm I always have in each country and each city. Its too bad I did not record them well.

In Guayaquil, going to three different gay clubs and transvestite club.
Near napa, falling deep into the mud when I running to look for a secluded place to shit. By then I got so used to making the world my bathroom anywhere I didn't see people.
Driving super fast to make it to the appointment at the us embassy and still late forty min but no trouble.
Finding out that I had to fly out of Ecuador because I am getting permit to enter us from there which racked up hella on airplane ticket.
Missing my plane in Quito and couldn't transfer the ticket to next day because I had to enter US that day. My plan was to pay $125 from bogota to fort lauderdale. I ended up paying over $800 to enter US.
Not faking a plane ticket at the us embassy to spend more time with Ben,
Be taken to four different prostitute clubs by taxi driver when I asked him to take me to after party where there is electronic music. And paid him $25. It was like dollar per min.
Smoking so much of shitty pot for days and days with Ben only to not get high at all.
Entering US so easily that I didn't feel triumph over all my effort to enter US.
Ayahuasca had missing ingredient and didn't feel or see what I expected. Drank who beer bottle filled ayahusca after feasting for 20 hours, puked, shitted, slept. I saw fat smiling budda on the wall for hours. I just stared. One time, I was laying to sleep, budda turned into a scary looking skull so I stayed awake.
Bought a big pot from street food vendor for $5 and gathered firewood off streets and cooked rice, chicken soup, fame with it. I could have done it longer and more.
Spotting super fresh fish for a dollar in a small beach fishing town near montanita
Arriving in montanita only to be disappointed by.
Bungee jumping for the first time.
Driving in a fog filled mountain hidden road, only to be scared by it and turn around.
Visiting children Quechua school only to not volunteer, just talk about condition and play soccer with kids. One of the girl let me taste her candy, reminded me of a candy in Korea. I wrote on whiteboard to test their math skills.
Boiled water and showered in volunteer program hostel.
Visited monkey house where monkeys from trafficking lived. Vicious monkey tried to steal Ben s glasses and my necklace. Saw turtles having sex. Watched mommy monkey sharing food with other monkeys,
Went to the zoo and saw wild cats including lions. Monkeys grabbed my hand. One mean one tried to piss at me. Saw tapiz for the first time.
Finding out Ben is still in Quito to this day. Told him to get out of there and go see the world. He might take longer to see each region than me.

Esteli, Nicaragua

Upon leaving Leon. I was expecting seven hours trip to esteli. Taking multiple buses.

Met a girl name Tatiana. She didn't speak English. In the middle of the bus ride, she told me about la Tierra caliente. I said lets go look. She resisted. I challenged her, don't remember what I said but she got off the bus with me. There was hot spot like similar to one tiny site of Yellow Stone Park. I was excited to see boiling ground. Never gets old.

We went to get neighborhood so I can use Internet to check CS. We decided to hangout on tuesday. Because I wanted to see university with animals and she is studying to be a veterinarian.

By the third bus, it was dark but locals assured me that it's safe to travel at night. Met a guy who is heading to esteli. He did not speak English. Never introduced each others name. I went to the hostel he was staying because he told me its $c50 roghly $2. Cheapest hospedaje I've ever stayed. Most ghetto as well. He sells mouse traps and wakes up at 3am to go sell in Honduras. We went out together. He introduced me to his girls in the town. She had a beer together.

There was about four CSers. Only one offering couch but she denied. Met with Ariana Camille Herrera. The only one with many reviews and list of friends. Definitely a real CSer. Reminded me of Frida from Acapulco.

Upon meeting her, met with her tourist friends that she met in San Juan del sur but not for long.

She carried exuberant personality and very expressive. I could see there was a lot of charm like Alex. Even curses she was saying had tone of happiness.

Her facial expression and energy is free as if there is nothing to hide. This is best trait about Alex that he attracts many people. There were less as he was getting older which when he came out it was more sweet. Ari is like younger and female version.

She spoke very good English. Her pronunciation was not as good as dani Villanueva but she had deep knowledge of everyday English. It must have been lot of practice from meeting CSers and other media materials from US. She spoke few phrases of Italian, French, Indian. I think there is a hidden talent in her about language. She expressed frustration when there was a barrier to communication. Even when I talk to her in Spanish, she responded with English. As if she was more comfortable talking in English.

I decided that she would make a good partner to go for a drive together. Adventuresome that she is, she only resisted once and quickly got excited. Yes I like these type of people. The yes people. The girl from bus was complete opposite in this sense.

Destination was bluefield. Then changed to corn island. Carrib side of Nicaragua. It was a easy choice as there are only two roads and two towns on the water of Carrib.

It turns out there was no road to bluefield. We stopped in town called Rama. Had to take a boat to bluefield. Two hours. $c200, $8.62 per person.
I paid for her so everything doubled.

It's a remote place. Everything costed more than esteli.

When we arrived in bluefield. We took a boat to bluff. From bluff to corn island was another $c200 per person and five hour boat ride. Quickly my plan for a short two day trip was broken.

We did not make it to little corn island because we were running against time of rented car that charged me $35 per day. As well as maintaining another person s all expense was stressful for me and I had to take many moments to shift my perspective to enjoy the moment.

Rarity of boat and far distances. Had to rent a car for four days. Which I was able to negotiate extra two days to $30 a day. I got extremely upset because my purpose of negotiation was to make total four days to $30 a day. Bu my translator Ari, who is young, naive, honest kind hearted, lack every sense of business negotiation decision was not taking my side and failed to translate exactly word by word, revealing to much of truth rafter than hiding things behind the veil and lost leverage in the negotiation.

If we pretended that we were already back in town and wanted to rent for extra one or two days only if owner agreed that if we would settle at a rate of $30 for all days including two days we already agreed on for $35, and approach was that if owner were to say no then my position was to return the car immediately even though I was stick in corn island. This was my plan and but my lack of my planning in ari's brain changed the approach to very passive and weak.

I dropped this off with a long walk.

Rental car $130 4 days
Gas $65
Boat: $c1664, $70
Hotel: $c350

I hated this money part because I would have wanted to stay longer if I knew it was this far. Should have figured out cost before leaving Rama and availability of the boats and distance/time between bluefield and corn island.

These feelings did not last long and did not stop me from buying candies and food.

First time on my life being in an open ocean where nothing in 360 degrees from me was a cool experience. Very choppy water and big waves shakes the boat so hard that I always had to hold on to something to stand.

I could understand why people get sea sick from fishing boats it was as if I was on discovery channel. Water splashing on the deck of the boat, tourists sick as a dog puking. I was luckily fine. Didn't eat. Don't get motion sickness easily but after over six hours on that boat I was starting to feel something.

There are many Jamaica Descendents. History speaks that they were brought as slaves by British. This area used to be a pirate hub.

People seemed to be well of thanks to fishing business. Heard that Koreans were running fishing business. Pretty large. I saw many boats named 성하 in english.

Talked to quite of bit of locals. One local girl I met in Internet cafe gave me get number after few chat. But never called her. Water was beautiful blue. Definitely would want to visit.

Koreans in Guatemala for clothing business a s here fishing business. For being a tiny country, they are quite spread out internationally with large commercial businesses.

I want one for myself!

.

Saw many fields, beautiful view similar to yellow stone, cows and horses. Gave few hitch hikers rides.

Saw some travelers on the island.

Met one nice restaurant owner to exchange FB contact.

Stopped by managua. Saw a movie. Came back to the same hostel

Hiked a big hill with ari today. We talked about our trip as well as self discovery about ourselves abs giving each other feedback.

Tomorrow I leave to Managua to see Above and Beyond. Bought a ticket through a daily deal.