Motorcycle Diary

Friend of mine recently got himself a bike and he planning on moving to California.

He asked how my bike is. 

Here is my response. 

"She just broke couple new records. Debating whether to get her shoes after our big trip of before. got her a raincoat. she tested it and she likes it. she is nervous if I wold dump her someday.... well it's just between you and me, she doesn't know this... from the moment we laid eyes on each other, we knew we would get along great but our relationship has an expiration date as I have with all things with wheels."


Friday, I took off work earlier than usual and went on a camping trip with Kari. Friday afternoon traffic was worse than I had anticipated so we had less time together in the day light. 

After we set up our tents, we got some groceries. As soon as we got back to our campsite, it started raining and it rained all night long. Thankfully, when we awoke, rain stopped and we enjoyed nice mountain curvy road. However, that did not last long. As we had expected from the weather report, 50% chance of rain caught up to us  and we stopped curvy road and headed home on the freeway. 

By the time we reached city limit, rain had stopped and we said our farewell. 

On my way back from the camping trip. I made my visit to 아름. She was extra affectionate and clingy. Also I got to see her bad manner side. It was not pretty. This was my first visiting her home. I noticed her energy doesn't last long and she needs frequent nap. She had a big bruise on her forehead from falling during her attempt to run. It seemed normal to me to cross boundaries, challenge and living on the edge. Bruise is quite natural. 

Upon leaving 아름 weather was warm and sunny once again. I got off the freeway and ventured to the path where I have not beaten on. As always, it is more fun. Scenic routes of green, yellow and red natures. Red and brown birds. Fellow riders. Old historic buildings and run down local homes. Reminded me of riding in Colombia. 

It was peaceful, calm and quiet. It's just me and the road with music in my ears. 

When I filled up the tank, I was surprised how little of gas I had to put in to fill her up. After calculation, it was 63 mpg. I couldn't believe my eyes that I ran it again. It made me very happy. What a drastic change when I just in motor's comfort zone?  

Kari tells me her bike is more stable than her old sportser even though I see her more struggle to maneuver her new bike. My sportster already feels light to me and I am definitely ready for something bigger and my eyes are on V-rod or Fat Boy.

Front tire is becoming bold and I don't know how much longer she can handle. Arriving close to home, I almost fell off and could have crashed very severely. I was turning corner bit wild but controlled, yet rear started falling off, bike started leaning too low and without thinking, my right leg reacted and stepped on the ground, of course due to the fast speed, my right foot was kicked off instantly and stopped by the saddle bag. It happened so quickly that I questioned how did I regain balance and not fall. Did I give more gas while pushing the bike off with the right foot all unconsciously only with muscle memory? Did God save me or was it his trick to remind me to stay humble? Could I have remembered that I used my right foot without feeling pain on right ankle after the impact? If I didn't feel any pain, I would not have noticed... Then again, my ankle should have been damaged yet it is completely fine. 

Prediction for this week weather seem wet. Good thing I bought that cover. I tested it today. Thick. big enough to cover the entire bike. Water proof. Yet. It's another addition to possession. This settled life is increasing things slowly, creeping upon me...

Had a long conversation with mother about my principle on minimalist life.

Why I ride a motorcycle

I have started working with Korean. I am living in rural area amongst Koreans. Korean society is something I have neglected to be part of over a decade.

Throughout my travel, I decided that my self discovery is never ending. I came across a quote 'life is not about living, it's about creating' myself.

Quotes always have been huge part of my life. They develop and teach me and become part of who I am. 

I know about this because when a quote inspire me, I remember it from reading it the first time and it never leaves me. I can feel and understand the person who said those words.

Right now I have two quotes withstand amongst all other quotes that are in me. 

"Go confidently in the direction of your dreams, live the life you've imagined" - Henry T.

"I can make a difference but together we can change the world"

I added these two quotes in my signature for my work email. 

Today I was asked a question, "Do you ever think about getting a car? Logistically it would make your life way easier"

Lately, this has been popular topic among my coworkers. Many of them are older than me and this means superiority in korean culture. They do not ask my opinion on why I ride. They just assume without telling me their assumption. I hear their underlying assumption when they tell me what they think about riding a motorcycle. This involves in their conversation of type of car they like, price, credit, payments, driving luxury car, appearance of the car, size of engine, top speed of the car and color.

Couple years ago, I was all about these and I understand, but now these are not the things I care about. It feels like smelling meat after not eating meat for a month. It feels like drinking water in LA, after drinking water in WA for a year. It feels breathing city pollution after living in rural area for a week. 

I understand it is difficult to feel the change in temperature of every exit you pass by on the freeway when you are in the car, I understand it is difficult to smell the flowers, subtle change of the engine roar when you give just tiny bit more gas, delicate balance of leaning at corners and curves, pulling the right to go left and I understand that these are only physical attribute that bike riding can offer.   

There are more. 

You feel the challenge to focus all your energy to be attentive when there is pouring rain, slippery road, metal plates on the ground, grooves on the road, dark night, foggy visibility, idiots coming onto my lane almost running over me, semi trucks blowing heavy wind pushing and pulling me, rocks flying hitting my body, bugs poking my hand at 90mph

Driving a car is like drinking diet coke instead of regular. It is like eating meat without seasoning, salad without dressing, working without loving work, getting from a to b without joy and excitement, tasteless life. 

Riding my bike represent freedom, living on the edge, unknown world where many people fear to live in, challenging status quo, collectivism vs individuality, independence.

Many people told me not to go to Mexico alone because it's too dangerous. In Mexico, people told me not to go to Guatemala because it's too dangerous. In Guatemala, they told me not to go to Honduras for same reason. In States, people tell me same thing about me riding motorcycle. 

One thing they all have in common is that they never gone to Mexico alone, they never ridden a motorcycle. 

They don't know what it's like to acknowledge a fellow rider when seeing them  on-coming traffic with simple nod or raise of left hand. This gesture explains why I ride a motorcycle and why I don't drive a car more than I can in words.. 

When I listen to them talk, it gives me motivation to keep on riding without a car, there is a fire starting in my heart to pull myself away from them and not be like them. I want to encourage challenge and I feel happy listening to those people. I do not want to live in fear and make decisions based on fear. I want to live with courage and make decisions based on inspiration. 

I could never tell these people this because they were all good people and they said those things because they cared and worried about me. At the same time I always hated that they tried to instill fear in me. When I tell them I understand the risks of riding a motorcycle because I have had fallen off bike few times with injuries. Yet, some still push their opinion on motorcycle rather than their experience. 

It almost feel like they are trying include me in their un-experienced world of fear and tell me to be like them and worry when I am trying so hard to be myself and myself alone. Sometimes, I gave in out of respect and I regretted those decisions for not leading my own exciting life. 

I just want them to understand that I mean no harm or disrespect to not lead my life like theirs. People believe their opinion is correct because many others do same.  This involves topics such as marriage, religion, jobs, family and money. 

Before you try to correct me wrong, please stop yourself and doubt that perhaps I am not wrong, I am just different and there are no good and bad ideas, just different ideas.  

I am just simply going direction of my dream and living the life I have imagined. Please inspire me to keep on. 

There are people who believe in same ideas as I do. We inspire each other. We acknowledge each other and we respect each other. There are my type of people out there. It is rare to find them but that makes it more precious and special for me. I am ok to not belong in majority. I am ok being an outlier. 

Today I am happy because I am able to connect dots between who I am today and why I ride motorcycle. 

Motorcycle diary 3

Fabrizio and I went on a motorcycle ride to southern Florida visiting fort Myers, cypress park, Everglades national park, Miami beach and key west while couchsurfing.

On Thursday morning I called Elizabeth. Our first host in fort Myers. Based on her profile I knew that she only host people with perfect safe surfers. I could tell from the profile pictures and amount of references they had. When I called her she told me that she did not get my response. I was annoyed for CS app not working properly but I told her I am coming and she said ok. When I called her once I arrived in st Petersburg, she did not respond so I sent her a text. When we arrived in her town she did not respond. So I go to Starbucks to write her I see a her message with a decline. I noticed a pattern with host from key west. First they accept but due to my delay in response they change their mind. Definitely different from traveling in Latin America or Georgia then again I was traveling alone and I don't have to wait for my fellow traveler to approve or respond to host. Later I realized fabrizio is so laid back that I could have just planned the whole trip based on my wants he wouldn't mind.

So at 7:30pm we don't have a couch and I found a cheap motel for $40. In the mean time fabrizio contacted a host who hosted same people he did. Larry who lives in school bus responded right away and let is sleep on his sailboat. He chatted his motorcycle travel for three summers 70k miles, insufficiency of money for travel And fellow travelers. He made us rice and beans I bought beer and carrot. He did not drink beer. I was grateful for his kindness. He wants to ride his bicycle to visit his son while visiting fabrizio and me on the way. Welcome I said.

Next morning. I had my biometrics appointment done and headed off to Miami. We went through cypress park and part of Everglades. Saw alligators and many species of birds. It was sunny. No helmet. Took pictures. Enjoyed. Took another picture with dead alligator, visited alligator and fish hatchery place where there were bunch. Saw couple birds snatching fish out of the water. Saw many bikers and of course say hi with left hand when we see each other on opposite side. I love doing that.

Fabrizio found us host in Miami. A guy who used to live in st Petersburg. He lives in pent house in Hollywood by the beach. I was surprised. He told story when he sold his $150k stock option and bought a club spending $60k but making $30k profit a month then shut the club down because business went sour and went broke. It was cool and inspiring. He is 53 years old but had a energy of 30 year old. He treated us with beer and food then we went out and had more beers and appetizer. Then morning fed us breakfast. That was the first time someone was very hospitable materialistic way. He talked about insufficiency of money, travel in Central America and our next host we are going to meet in key west because he hosted him. He talked about CS activity and group meetings that he hosts. Yet I was most inspired by his story of owning club and shutting it down. When I rode through Miami beach and conversation with rob helped me understand materialistic world of Miami and USA. These are things that Angelica see USA as. It is quite different from northwest where people are richer yet show less. Different values. I hate the talk of money. It's like my hosts are wonderful fun and interesting plate of delicious dinner and ruin it with putting too much of one seasoning. I remember Jose and Angelica and how great they were. Few conversation, no background history conversation only in present moment and we get along.

I was appreciative of rob for what he did and I want to write him a sincere reference. Spending time with Larry rob and fabrizio along with CS experience gave me much deeper insight to hosts perspective which I am about to start on Monday with nia from Austria., I told them about her and they are worrisome and skeptical. However I still want to host her and see it for myself because my intuition tells me that its going to be ok if not great.

Late morning today we headed off to key west. Seeing beautiful scenic routes and warm weather, minor traffic due to 150 miles relay run race. Long bridges, beautiful colored ocean, taking more riding pictures. Fabrizio and I get along great, we don't talk much we just ride decisions are made fast and both us are flexible and easy going.,

We met our host in key west. He is from Serbia and well traveled and well experienced in CS. He was cooking in the kitchen to serve many people. We got to eat. He accepted long time ago to my request then he said he couldn't and told me he could show us free camping spot. After getting to know each other in the church chatting and eating together he welcomed us to his house. Fabrizio and I give off good vibe I can tell. It throws people off with our leather jackets and loud bikes then they warm up to us. It's different experience then when I travel alone. Yet same with bike when people see me first time with my bike and outfit distancing themselves until I open lips and lose my bike gears. It was same with Amy, Jenny but not with keary.

Mirco, our host in key west is going to take us to an island tomorrow. He is going to hop on fabrizios bike. Today I taught him how to ride a motorcycle and he rode my bike around the block. He had trouble shifting gears. But I was glad that he didn't drop it.

Tomorrow all day we will chill on key and head off to greet and welcome my first surfer at my home on Monday

Of I got hella burned from sun and my face show tan line from sunglasses

Simple life

Simple life.

It's a choice to live simple. Sometimes it is challenging. It's a fine balance between comfy standard of living and principle.

It gives me freedom to have less attachment.
For example.
I was living a great happy life then when Ben showed in my presence in Peru we started talking about my possessions from the past and talking about how little money he sold my stuff for. It was stressful and letting go was definitely a process. There is still one jacket that lingers on my mind every once in a while. Then I go long period of time without it in my mind.

After loss of my osprey bag, Buying that leather bag was a great decision. Not too big but big enough for all the necessity and its definitely never so full that I struggle to zip it.

It was a struggle to make a decision to buy the raincoat. Harsh weather condition in Georgia was unbearable. Reminder of motorcycle crashes were two lessons enough to not ride in a wet road freezing my bones off. Yet, decision did not come so easy because my saddle bags are already full enough. Sure I can loosen the straps and pull them tight to hold more but it requires me to fold all my clothes neatly and tightly. It is a question of comfort and standard of living. More I have more options I have. More comfortable I can live. But it is matter of principle to not to buy another bag or bungee cord. My bike is huge compared to what I used to have. I am only 135lbd and this bike can hold up to 400lbs. But do I really want to drAg that stuff every time I want to move? I don't need all of that. Everything I need are here. I don't need furnitures because anywhere I sleep they are there. After all, all I need is a bed.

Albany GA. was the last destination in Georgia. After that I headed south. I knew it would be Warmer. So there was a matter of keeping this green blanket from Angelica which kept us warm throughout our travel and for me was since I decided to live in Fernando s house which was since July. Decision to Break off our 6 months relationship came as I figured this blanket would serve homeless better than me and Georgia is colder than Florida. I was afraid that my new home in Florida would not have blankets and that I would need it but I told myself that I had enough clothes to keep me warm.

Getting rid of that blanket gave me cushion in my saddle bags not to fold clothes tightly every time I loaded thence. If its warm I can afford to leave all the gears And just wear leather jacket and sun glasses.

No helmet law. It gives me pleasure to wear least amount and just ride. Just hop on turn it and go. When I get off, I turn it off pull the key out and just walk. As if it is a bicycle. It's simple.

Of course if I need gloves, peacoat, rain gear, they are all ready behind me. I felt that simplicity from riding in warmth today and saw many bikers. I think I can understand the characters of bikers. Almost always cruiser riders have beard, bandana covered their forehead, pony tails, long hair. When I looked in the mirror my long beard, my long hair sleek back from wind messy, shape of wind showed me who I am becoming or already am.

Yet, I shaved today. It's been over two months since I shaved. They were long. All down the drain. Now I don't have something to pull from my chin.

Right now I am going through another complication. Whether to buy chaps. It's a typical biker uniform. I have been against it. When I thought if my ride back up to Atlanta for biometric appointment in USCIS, I saw 40-50 degrees in Atlanta. Now I am getting better at keeping myself warm for rides and know the importance behind it. Definitely know the importance of not crashing my bike. Chaps would block the wind and keep my lower body warm which right now is the location loses most of hear. But it also means having more things getting in my way of simple life. I won't be gone long out of Florida yet if Florida weather is to get colder and if I ever want to make a trip to Missouri it might be a good decision to get one now.

Lets try with leggings first and see how far I go.

Motorcycle diary 2

Motorcycle diary 2
Dec 23 2012

I am physically exhausted. Have sore throat. Slept in until 3pm. Feel cold.

So i have been in search for a permanent home. When I was in Albany Ga. I thought I found one in leesburg. But turned out to be not an ideal home. One mattress. Super cold room. Owner had nothing. He gave me Five sheets But don't fit to mattress. Nothing in the kitchen. Not even salt and pepper. Just owners pots and pans and few silverware. Normally when you are renting this is no big deal. People already own furnitures but I don't do I looked under room share section of the Craigslist for ready furnished place. Bottom line is I don't like this place. So I rent it for a week and search for new home again.

On 21st, I finally find two but its already 5pm. Houses are both close to each other but two hours away from me. Which forces me to ride in the dark in a cold night. The cold night part I underestimated it was one of the coldest night around here. My direction took me to toll high way. It was annoying to keep pulling over to pay, it's not as simple as driving a car and reaching over the cup holder for coins while still driving.

I visit the first house. It was beautiful. Nice neighborhood. Paying hundred more than what I am and makes huge difference. 25 guy who has landscaping business lives there and it's his fathers house. Second house was nice too. Owner does not live there 5 bed rooms three people living. He liked me I could tell GE just talked for an hour about house life money. But he was a control freak even told me his Myers Briggs letters INTJ then he told me he is extroverted.

Ride back was so cold. My hands and lower body felt numb. Upper body only I had multi layer. Under armor, two shirts, leather jacket and peacoat.

I got back home. Frozen up. Put the left over food on the stove and took a hot shower.

Yesterday. I got out of the house at 5:40am to go to west palm beach. Turns out my map direction took me to bunch of till roads. Yesterday annoying experience taught me not to get in those. There are plenty of good free roads. This got me way far behind schedule. This time I put on my rain gear for extra warmth. I just went east until I hit interstate 95. By the time I got there sun was about 45 angle up in the sky. I packed away my rain gear, had a coffee and sausage biscuit at McDonald and recalculated ETA. I was going to be forty min late. But that thought went away when I got on the freeway. Speed limit is 70. But everyone was going 80-85. I followed this car that was going 90. This was fastest I have been on this bike or on any motorcycle. It was windy, shaky, pushing me left and right. I had to look out for bumps and lines, pay attention to curves and any cars on the side may cut me, cars coming behind me, check for break lights for sudden stops, construction zone weird lanes and land marking and of course state patrol. Funny thing was two state patrol did not pull me or other speeding cars over. I saw two sheriffs pass me when I was going 80 at one point.

So I made it to my destination 20 min late, getting 45 mpg which is terrible, usual is 55-57mpg, only to be disappointed. Ugly messy house in ugly neighborhood. Room had refrigerator and microwave and bathroom but she just wanted me to use that and live the door to house locked while using other door to go in and outside. When I asked her about kitchen she said no and that was the deal breaker.

By this time I was warm and glad to be in southern Florida. I get a call from second house land lord saying she Misinterpreted message and now there won't be anyone to show me the house. I said I woke up 5am to look this house then she goes "but you were looking at houses right?" Manipulative. But I looked at the house anyway. Gated community. Ok looking small house. It did feel homey. Looked like they moved in yesterday and already their own way set up and I didn't like it. I assumed utility bill of $150 for a tiny house and then $120 for wifi a lie. I was disappointed. Found some leads. So I followed it. He was not home and did kit answer the phone. Later he called when I was about to enter freeway but I didn't answer.

By this time it's around
1:30pm had to decide whether to go to fabrizio s pot luck in st Petersburg which starts at 2pm and takes four hours to get there or go to Miami to check out another place. I chose Miami and rode another 1.5hrs. Funny thing happened. My phone is dead. Which it shouldn't have been. I had plenty of battery only thing u could think of was dropping it in McDonald. I plugged it in and waited and waited no response I was saying good bye to this phone. Luckily I remembered the address and by reading street signs and grid system found the house. Nobody was there. Ghetto neighborhood. Ghetto apartment. There were four I knocked on all of them nobody answered. I went to McDonald again to see if my phone would work but no. There everyone spoke Spanisg. Kids yelling in Spanish, lady making order and the guy taking the order all. There was even a girl with backpack selling music CDs for a dollar! Old man next to me playing with his new lap top talking in Spanish. Then I had to go to bathroom and I asked him."señor yo voy al bano puede ciudad Mia cosas?" He was surprised but understood everything. People around looked at me. I was not sure if it was because I was the only Asian there or because I spoke Spanish. It's the look I was exposed to for a year throughout travel. Outsider, foreigner, tourist, traveler, non local, etc. no luck. I checked out downtown but feared for cold weather ride back and rushed back north. I went fast on I-95 Witt lasting warmth and sun on my left hiding away leaving me with darkness and chill.

I stopped at gas station to get a coffee and put on my rain gear when I couldn't bear the cold no more.

With no phone, no map, I had to figure out my way back home. It's only been two days I lived there. I was not certain how to trace back. I relied on signs and my intuition and yes I made it back all in one piece getting better at dealing with cold and where and how to cover myself. Going to the bodies exhibit was very helpful because now I know where big arteries are and leaving them cold is fatal to maintenance of body temperature. My legs chills the blood and chest warns the blood.

I had a cold beer and had left over soup and passed out.


After 600+ miles ride and half in cold weather, a beer and chicken soup hit shower
When I awoke I had a sore throat and have not left bed for three hours.

MOtorcycle diary

Motorcycle diary

For the first time I went on a ride as a group. I was always curious and imagined what it would be like. This could only happen in US.

It all happened because I met Kari. Kari is a friend of terisa, my first couchsurfing host in USA. When I told terisa that I am going to buy a harley to travel across US, She immediately thought of Kari and introduced us on the phone. Kari rode her Harley and travels across US. she couchsurfered and pitched tent and rode her sportster 1200 for 14,000km. She faced near death situations, blown tired, snow storm and meeting many kind bikers.

When I arrived in Atlanta, I reached her it and drove to her house, she conversed about our travel stories and passion for bike. When she was telling her long detailed story about her road trip I was all ears, especially the part about failing to make it to yellow stone. There'd was so much snow that she was prohibited to enter, she showed me the picture of her bike surrounded by snow. This was most audacious, daring, adventuresome part of her story. As a girl traveling alone, pitching tents to sleep and majority of the time cold. She travels seven months across US and he trip began in sept.

I remember crossing mountains in Colombia and Ecuador and how freezing cold it was, feeling numbness in my legs and hands. Shivering my whole body for hours and hours, desperate for anything hot.

Before her journey she lost hundred pounds though dedicated weight loss program, diet and exercise.

So clearly she is a cool person and she promised to go on a ride together.

So after staying with Keary (CS host in Atlanta, real cool guy and we got along well) for a week, I packed my stuff in my two saddle bags and headed toward Kari's house to surf for couple days and hang out with her for Saturday and Sunday.

Today is Saturday. As soon as I arrived at her driveway, I unpacked my saddle bags and rode out to meet with her friend who rides fat boy. His bike was huge and fat. Fat tires, seats, frame, everything.

Kari s friend took a lead, Kari followed then me. We followed each other diagonally from each other. I watched way they handled corner, brake usage, clutch usage, posture and acceleration.

We went and I was cold. It's definitely my pants. I need two layers for my legs. They laughed when I put on my peacoat over my leather jacket. I liked it because I was not advertising harley Davison on my clothing and being not a typical biker all leathered out.

We stopped at the viewpoint top of the mountain. We stood there and conversed bout our travel stories, accidents and passion for bikes. There three bikers there. They were on BMW and Ducati. Enduring and touting bikes. We did not talk to them nor did they talk to us.

We ended our journey and Kari and I came back to her house. By the time we got back we were seriously cold and tired from the cold weather. But we still managed to hit up the cool house club/bar where keary and I went to.

Im looking forward to my road trip back to Florida.

Motorcycle crash again

Crashed the motorcycle again. This time I hurt myself worse than last time. Right leg damage. Swollen knee, scratched up 5 different areas. Two big areas are struggling to heal. Swelling has yet to go down which makes it a difficult a walk.

Wet mountain top road, very cold, down hill, going too fast coming to the corner, stepped on brake, back sliding slipping, front brake is useless since the repair, it barely works.

It s annoying that I crashed in a similar condition as last time. Thinking about getting a raincoat to keep my body warm. Also need to decide how long and how far I Wil travel.

Revised in jan 2013

I can still see the vivid motion pictures of cold, raining, dark mountain roads, seeing a bright sky far away near my destination, dreading every second to descend the mountain, finally reached the peak of the mountain, passing by semi trucks, seeing a slight left turn corner, braking, rear wheel wiggling left and right, losing control, rear going left sliding, letting go of the brake, seeing the concrete guard rail...'shit I'm gonna hit it...'

I open my eyes, feel the pain in my right thighs and right knee. Touching and feeling my body to see if I broke any bone. I am sitting on grass, ground level is much higher than the road. To my right there is a cliff but covered by branches of the tree, i cant see the cliff. Behind me, Motorcycle still running, resting on its side. It also went over the guard rail.Pain is rushing over, its difficult to breath, this is my second motorcycle accident in less than a month. This time I am angry.

"shit, fuck, shit, god damn it" I screamed.

Ok. Breathe, get moving, it raining, bike is still running. Aww it hurts. Can't get up. Definitely hurt myself a lot worse than last crash. Wheeeew, let me breathe a bit. Thinking about all the things and decisions to avoid this from happening. Well it's too late.

I hear footsteps and voices. Truckers who I passed by came by to help. It's a surprise. Because my first crash, the guy who I passed just drove by.

Check! Check! Hello! Notice something here. What a exact same situation.
Cold raining curvy mountain road, impatient to get off the mountain, speeding and passing a vehicle, ends up crashing at a corner. Stupid at that time, alive and have a cool story now.
Now that I own a another motorcycle, I realized that I had a crapy front brake. I damaged it from my first crash and never really healed it right. Had mechanic fixed it but I was not satisfied then mechanic told me this is supposed to be that way and that I should rely on rear brake more.

Three truckers showed. They asked if I was alright. I didn't want their help. But these are mid aged colombianos. They insisted. I was not ready to get up, but in the process of one of them trying to help me up, he was stepping on the mirror. So I followed. Other guy turned off the moto that was still running. They picked it up, put it on the ground.

Fortunately, there is a little house, truck stop, in walking distance that sells cookies and candies.

Truckers didn't have to explain about me because ladies in the house gasped when they saw my completely ripped jeans from thigh to mid knee, bare skin covered in blood. Truckers advised me to call police because they can help me bring the bike down the mountain for free.

"estoy bien, yo voy a manejar la moto" i said

"creo que no!" one guy replied,

I was fed with hot agua de panella and arepa. I rested for awhile, then I stood, I asked for price, they refused to accept my money. I got o the bike, saw its condition. Large scratch in the front, off alignment, broken signal light, overall damage to the bike is less severe than last time but more damage on my body.

I ride, slow and steady I descended the mountain. I ride through Armenia the famous coffee town, temperature is warm, road is straight, I'm going fast, moisture is my body is drying off, taking body heat along with. By the time I reached my destination Pereira, it has taken me 10 hours to get there. I'm in downtown, I make a call to my CS friend, she says I'm in dangerous district, yet it is locals staring my bloody leg from far away keeping their distance.

Finally I get some help, watching blood being washed off by the hot shower.

I stay in pereira for three days, spending majority of the time shopping for new pants, bike parts, mechanic, rain gear for future prevention. Talking to people about price for selling my bike, in exchange for bigger bike. Meeting cool people, drinking aguardiente and smoking cigarette.

On my way back to bogota, I stopped by the shop, thanked them for warming my body with agua de panella and I bought many cookies and candies along with arepa con queso. Once I reached bogota, it started thunder storming and massive rain, I put on my rain gear that I purchased, stayed dried and regretted that I didn't buy it sooner.

Motorcycle road trip Quito Ecuador to maracaibo Venezuela

I have been on long distance, fast traveling road trip with a hurry. Goal was to get to Maracaibo, Venezuela from Quito Ecuador. In three days. Instead it took five days

Everything was expected because I have been in this road before. I was moving slow or I set a unrealistic goal. After grueling bumpy ride and fast moving, bike chain got lose and fell off. I quickly put then back on. Bicycle riding days in my youth reminded me how to put the chains on. I hired this kid to tighten it. Paid $1000 pesos. After fifteen min I noticed something is wrong with the bike, as I'd something's dragging the rear tire I thought alignment was not set correct. It's dark so I decided to sleep off on this cheap motel in small town that Name of it doesn't exist on the map. Next day I saw a mechanic, I explained, he had test drive, tightened bolts on the middle of the bike, then problem solved. I asked how much he shyly said tip, I told him to name a price so he said $2000 cop, I gladly paid.

I saw the most incredible view third best next to grand canyon and yellow stone in south of colombia and north of Ecuador. Near pasto.

I arrived in pereira around 730pm. I was behind schedule due to bad traffic in Cali. However I was glad that I arrived in pereira just as sin went down. By now I am accustomed to ride in the dark but don't like. My lights are dim, still don't have protective gear for my eyes for the night. I was annoyed when thd bug hit my left eye.

I think it dries and damages my contacts very fast.

I met with CS member. I unpacked, showered, then we went out to eat, drink and talk then we went home. We might see each other in the future.
I think it's the first time that I had just one night and left in the morning.

Left pereira couple hours later than I wanted. Got lost in manizales. Plus it was Sunday so part of the road was closed for the runners and walkers.

I got to the mountain path, it started raining, as I kept going up, it got colder. Last time I was in this condition of freezing body And wet road I crashed my bike and ripped my leather jacket. It was a typical mountain stretch. I didn't stop to add extra clothes to save time knowing the fact that I will be going through hottest part of Colombia.

When I was at the hot part el dorado, I bought a bag a mango then I realized $50,000 bill COP I thought I had was not there. That changed many of my plan for gas, room and food.

I arrived in bucaramanga around 9pm.
Found Internet. Contacted CS member. Due to my fast pace or lack of planning or keeping up with my Ambitious plAn, I only had two half assed contact and one phone number from CS. He didn't offered to host me when I called so i found a hostel. There I signed this hostel up for wehostels, and met with young German traveller. Who exchanged dollar for me to pay the hostel. At this point I only have $5900 COP, $120 USD. I thought with a half tank of gas I would make it to Venezuela border and exchange my dollars. It was longest stretch of mountain tops, including one hour wait for the road work. I was cold, way behind schedule because this day I am supposed to arrive in Maracaibo. cold mountain required more gas than I anticipated and I was running really low on gas which slowed me down. Survived with one house selling ACPM to make it out of the cold tops. I spent whats left of me pesos for half a gallon of acpm. At the valley I exchanges money at kitchen equipment shop who bought a dollar with 1600 pesos for.So I exchanged just enough to buy food and gas.


Once I arrived at the border, usual lines, money exchange, traffic slowed me down. It was around 3pm by the time I finished exchanging my $5000 pesos. Dollar could not be exchanged. So I had $25 bolivares.

I was getting back on the road then google direction and locals told me to go to a small mountain villages where no cars go by, steep, curvy. I was surprised that google knew this road. It was definitely a hidden shortcut.

My bike started having chain issues again and I was annoyed because I fixed this near el pasto en Colombia.
Which was few days ago. Which slowed me down and at this point I am so certain that I have a long drive to do at night and I only have 25 bolivars in my pocket and $100usd.

Fixed chain issue, nice tire shop
Guy did it for me for free. Then rear dragging problem occurred, stopped at another tire shop around 8 pm, he did it for free as well. Went to gas station, in this town they required chip to pump gas, so nice family guy with husband and kids gave me gas for free. By this time I am once again thankful for kindness in this country. I stopped in La fria to look for hotel to sleep because it's 9pm, barely anyone on the highway, I sense the danger. No hotels would accept dollars or exchange in this small town. Finally met with street food owner after waiting for an hour. She wanted 6 bolivar for dollar. Cheapest hotel is $150b. After doing Math, I said hell no to that and decided that I cannot sleep or rest until I arrive in Maracaibo. I called my contact in Maracaibo and told my ETA. I got address. So here I go on 8 hours road trip at 10pm at night. I expect to arrive at 3 or 4am. It quickly turned out to be ambitious goal. Too dark, I must be careful, I am high alert. 95octane gas sure keeps me wide awake.
Highway was an excellent condition, paved, flat, no holes, bright lines. So I put on my sunglasses to prepare to go fast. Semi truck went by me as I was gearing up. So I followed this super fast moving semi. I saw this truck turning emergency light on super far away. Then I see big mound of dirt on the road, gravel road, and 20 feet deep empty space on the road. I could have run over the mound, fly high and land in this dark hole and died. I turned my blinkers on to thank him for saving my life.

Eventually we said hi face to face at the peaje. He is going to Maracaibo. He is about 55 years old and knows road conditions well. He warns me about the road with holes so I decided to follow him. He would turn blinkers on to tell me which direction I should go to avoid the holes. I was so glad to have met him. I can go faster, safer from both road and thieves. We were together for about two hours I think. We stopped at truck stop together.

Eventually we went separate ways because I got stopped by nacional guard. It's about 2am and these guys were bored and wanted to more than just checking my paperwork. They took me to a office room, took everything out of my bag, looked at all my coins from different country, looked all over my phone including pictures, talk down to me, strip me naked, try to scare me with possession of marijuana, didn't necessarily ask for money or try to charge me money like other cop who tried to withheld my bike from me. I told him my title and license is valid, main guy who was leading this investigation or molest pushed that I do not have valid paperwork. Then his fellow says its international, I was pretending that I speak very tiny Spanish to pick and choose what i wanted to answer or not. Some of them would ask dumb questions sometimes I completely ignored them. I repeated this process with other officers in Venezuela when they wee unprofessional with me. However 90% of them are not bright, questionable high school graduates, immature, not well educated, do not speak clear Spanish like when I have talked to crazy loud people on the city street.

I was annoyed by the fact that they are simply playing, wasting my time, not giving me credit for foreigner, riding motorcycle, pitch black street.

I told them. "tengo que irme, ustedes vieron todo mis cosas y mis papeles están bien. Es muy tarde en la noche, mi amigo en camioneta esperando para mi porque es muy peligroso para manejar la moto en la noche. Tengo que seguir mi amigo. Dejame salir"

That didn't work at least not at that moment. Eventually they got bored, let me go and told me that I can follow the bus that they are investigating.

I kept on riding. Sun is rising, it's getting brighter. I asked the vendor of street food who is preparing how far Maracaibo is. He says one hour. He suggested that I grab a coffee. I must be looking really tired. I don't have any bolivares left to buy anything. $25 bolivares I had, I bought food at the la fria.

I put on my sunglasses to prepare to go fast. Instead I found myself pulling over 5 or 6 times because I kept on falling asleep. Danger was calling. Straight road with holes and bumps, now fast moving vehicles are passing by me, some honks and shine flash high beam at me. Drivers are rough I must be close to Maracaibo.
I got some sleep, stretched, finally I arrived in city level where there is morning traffic and people walking. 7:30am Found Yoli s house, strangely faster than I expected. I was surprised my ability to find places with map and address.

I was filthy, dirty, smelled like street, dirty polluted car, my pants have not been washed for days collecting all kinds of grimes from the road. My face is black except for the part that was covered with cloth and glasses.
I washed my face, took of my lenses, slept till 4pm.