Motorcycle Diary - Norther Mexico Day 2

Saturday

Left lake Fausse in a hurry. Luckily I didn’t grave any Park ranger confronting me. As soon as I left the park, I needed to find gas and my navigation phone(old iPhone 6s) but it was dead. So I pulled over middle of the road to connect it to my battery pack. Found the gas station on the map, only 20 miles away and the bike says I can go 29 miles. After about 7 min of riding around the corner turn, I hear something clinking. Figured I ran over something. Looked at my front pouch and it was open! I pull over immediately and the battery pack is gone. Turned around. Don’t see it on the road. Did one more run, I don’t see it. Pulled over and walked to look at the side of the road but still don’t see it. Shit. I need my battery. Also running low on gas. Went and got gas and came back, this time went all the way to where I plugged the battery. Nada. It’s gone. Navigation phone is dead now. Pulled out the the phone (iPhone X) which I don’t really want to use it as navigation because the phone gets hit by all kinds like dirt, bugs, debris. Went to Walmart and bought a same battery pack (Anker Power core 20,000). Made sure to close the front pouch. Long straight freeway ride to Houston then San Antonio. Hardly took any break other than bathroom break at rest area. Mapped out my itinerary to stop at In and Out burger in San Antonio and then Twisted Sister which is about an hour north west of San Anton, known as one of the best motorcycle road in US.

When I arrived In and out, I was tired. Ordered double-double. By the time I was finished eating, it was 5pm. By the time I arrive at Twisted Sisters, it would be sunset. Not an ideal situation to enjoy the best motorcycle road in US. I will stop by on the way back from Mexico. Spent a good amount of time looking for camping near he border. Nothing available. Found a cheap motel, Knights inn at Eagle Pass, TX. Border town. Made reservation via hotel.com

Still have one more hour to go, it’s already pitch black. Stopped at the gas station, now I see more Latinos and hear Spanish all around me. One guy on a sportster waves as he was leaving the gas station.
 

It’s one lane road with the occasional two-lane road for passing. This Chevy sedan just goes fast enough to slowly pass cars but not fast enough, leaving all others behind with me right behind. After about 20 min, finally see an opening, he just needs to move over but he ain’t. I come close but nothing. All these time, there was mustang GT behind me also who has been giving me enough space behind but consistently staying right behind me. He sees me not getting though comes a little close to me. I move over as a sign to let him pass. ‘Here, you try instead’ and he does as if he read my mind, he gets close to that car, revs up his engine loud several times. The car finally moves over and I follow him close immediately as two lane road is merging. I blink by emergency light once to thank him and he signals right once to say “you’re welcome”

It’s always the muscle car drivers sees me on the road as if we connect at a higher level. We give each other respect. Even when we race one another it’s for sport. But those luxury car drivers, soccer mom sedans, SUVs are opposites. Trucks are hit and miss.

Finally arrived in Eagle Pass. I see bright lights. Once I get to the hill, I see even concentrated brighter lights farther way, that’s Piedra Negras, MX. I unpacked all my stuff, laid the, on the bed. Took a picture. Amazing how all these fit in my hiking back pack and still have room.

Sunday.

It was one of the most comfortable bed in a under $50 motel. The nice hot shower also helped. Left a 5-star review. I was a bit nervous about border crossing as I only brought my Green Card with fake Mexican insurance and fake letter from financier of the bike, a letter from Chief of Harley Davidson financial services permitting me to take the bike to Mexico. I get to customs area, left is Mexico, right is US. I went left. The way led to toll booth, lady says 3 dollars in poor English. I asked where the customs was. She looked me weird and said you pay and go to Mexico. I said Dont I need to check in with US Customs? She didn’t understand. But she said you can turn around. So this time I made the right turn, there was nothing, it’s just a road to go elsewhere. I went back and asked the security guard looking guy, with his poor English he says, you pay the toll, cross the bridge and then check in at Mexico. So I paid the toll. As I was crossing the bridge I see lines of Carson the other bridge. After crossing the bridge, what it appears to be Mexican custom. But nobody stopping me or guiding. I stop and ask the people with weapons. “Donde puedo conseguirme permiso de mi vehiculo” they say go 50 km and there is ‘allenda’. I don’t know what that is. I went forward, I see all Spanish signs. I’m in Mexico. I went to gas station and said “llena por favor” the guy asked “verde?” I see that Green is Magna 87 octane, red Premium 91 octane. I said “la roja”
 

I follow my navigation to Cuatro Cinegas. There was nothing but desert and big warehouses, run-down houses, people standing on the side big enough for five lane road without lines and a big Corona factory.

Along the way I go through small towns, people riding small 125cc motos. Occasionally I see riders with superbikes, metric bikes, I assume they are Americans and I lift my left arm, the lift theirs back. A typical two wheeler tradition.

As I go through small towns, I am mesmerized by the beauty of the ghetto town, undeveloped fields, cows, sheeps, goats running free and horses tie down. The road narrows as I am in downtown of a small town. I see smoke at the corner. Someone’s barbecuing. I pull over and asked if the meat is ready, they say I have to go inside and buy the meats f bring it out. The girl at the store helped me bypass the long line. As I was waiting for the meat to cook, a guy at my age starts talking to me. We exchanged conversation and took pictures together. The girl is keep looking at me, I look at her back then she looks the other way. One old guy started asking me questions why I am traveling alone. I said my friends say Mexico is dangerous and they say no money. He responds back for force, yes it’s dangerous. You need a “companero” then he lectures me on and on about how I should find a pareja, telling me that I have “las lanas” I understood it as money. I said I work very hard. He talked too fast to understand so I just nodded and smiled. Then I saw couple of Harley riders all covered and blacked out, riding fast and making loud pipe noise, I waive. They jerked a little as if they were surprised to see me and waived back in a typical biker left arm.

The girl gave me the steak and asked if I want to go inside to eat, that inside was where butcher was cutting the meat, I ate this tough over cooked t bone steak that I bought for 3 USD.

As I continue to head south, I see many trucks with Texas license plate. I get to the tollway. As I don’t want any legal trouble, I drive at a speed limit which is 70km. Way too slow. I see all these Texas trucks passing by very fast. So eventually I follow.

 I arrive at Cuatro Cinegas, it just a bit bigger town, can’t find any signs for sightseeing that I planned. I’m not too worried as I am enjoying the view of the real Mexico. All the street people are staring at me. Many men are and kids are staring at me. My all blacked out Alpinestars outfit and all black Harley Davison low rider S is a definite head turner for guys and that deep rumbling exhaust is nothing to compare to their 125cc bikes. I occasionally nod at them, waive at kids and get on my way.

As I left the Cuatro Cinegas immediately, I see nothing but fields with mountains lines far far away that it looks blurry, clear sky, every time I pull over to take a picture I am sweating. Close by I see mounds of hills. Amazing. Beautiful. Speechless. I’m so glad I’ve decided to come to Mexico.

Now it’s an open road. Strong smell of asphalt, then I see road work. Building road. After hours of riding, I get tired, sleepy, the heat doesn’t help. I pee on the side of the road, pee is solid yellow. I feel headache. I must be dehydrated. Chugged two bottles of water, smoke a cigarette and get on my way. Nobody is going speed limit. In fact I’m going 80 to 110 mph. I finally hit 120mph. I’ve been trying but it takes too long. As Harley known for their torque and never mentioning the horsepower. Torque is for quickness, sudden burst of speed. Horsepower is for top speed.

I arrived at my destination, San Pedro. I arrived too early. So I decided to go further. I stop by Oxxo with large window to look over my bike. I call few motels to check prices and decided to go to Motel Eden because they said 370 pesos ($20 USD). A large metal gate awaits. When the gate opens, lady told me go go to 34. There is a garage per room, I park. She stares at me. I say “que hacemos” what do we do? She says “me pagas” pay me. She says you can’t leave once you are here. I say “but I need to go out and eat” she talks to someone is walkie tokie. She says you can’t leave but we have food service here.

From the garage to the door is a bedroom. Wow. Hotel quality nice. King size bed, large mirror, table leather chairs, no closet. I see the menu, beer is about $1.30 per bottle, food is 40 to 60 pesos. I figured they are more of an a appetizer so I order two food and two beer. I should ordered one because it was a large plate of food.

I drank and ate like a king. Then I get an extreme headache. Felt paralyzed because not moving is only time I didn't have a headache. 

I tried searching the web. I concluded that I am feeling high blood pressure. It mentions what things to avoid. I've taken them all. Greasy food, alcohol, not enough water, smoke, fatigue, no intake of vegetables. 

Let's get a good night of sleep.