Motorcycle Diary - Northern Mexico Day 4

I am recharged. Woke up early.

There is another Cave and some historical building that I've marked. Creel is only 4 hours away. I've got enough to time check out one of the two. I go see that building. It's in downtown. Indeed it was a beauty. While I was wondering where to park, security guard points to a corner where it seem to be pedestrian walk way. I park. There is a well maintain classic looking Royal Enfield bike.




 I immediately take a picture of it. I quickly assess if this is a safe area to leave my bike as it is with Helmet and iPhone 6s attached to it. I decided that it is. The building is so big that I couldn't capture a front shot of the picture. It appears to be a museum. The two guards at the gate began talking to me. We stood there and talk for a while. Until "Licensor" came, who received respect from the guards. I go inside. There is a tour going on. I some pictures. Then I begin to think about that open road, mountain road, change in terrain from here to creel, I can't wait to get back on that bike and keep riding.

As I was leaving the city, I missed my turn, went through tunnel then I see a billboard sign with Harley Davison marketing message on it. There is a Harley Davidson in town. Good. I need a new front tire. I get there by 9:30. It opens at 10am. Then I get that message again that I am out of data. WTF. I turned off everything!! What's going on??

I am in nice part of the town. Resembles big suburban road with shopping malls. I decided to get something to eat. Since I suffered high blood pressure symptom, might as well eat something healthy.

I pull into Thai restaurant parking lot. Before I turn off the engine, I leave this place because I saw Starbucks across the street. I ordered coffee and a Panini sandwich. Began using fast Wi-Fi. The couple sitting behind me began talking to me in American accent English. Ex-pat. Retired Army and his wife. Telling me stories of his motorcycle journey, how it was so cold and hot; how he didn’t' have gears like what I am wearing.

 I will arrive in Creel too early. I am couch surfing today. A school teacher. We meet at 7pm. I will have too much time to spend. I check the route and time for Barrancas del Cobre. A famous copper mountain. Supposedly have beautiful scenic view to mountain carving with bike, permitting if the road is not too bumpy.

I've noticed that both Chihuahua and Torreon city roads are terrible although they are nicely paved, there are no traction. Very slippery. I rear wheel kept gliding while front fell slippery. Harley Davidson rep tells me the price. Something in thousands of pesos. He looked at me if I would actually buy something that expensive. Before I convert to dollar, he says they don't have it. Oh well. I get on my way.

Indeed change in terrain was marvelous. I saw the desert change to forest very slowly. Began to show more and more trees, see mini streams, curvy roads. Curvy roads thankfully had good traction. By this time, road bumps are nothing to me but just to run over. I'm not worried. Beginning to realize how amazing my bike is, how it is equipped with top notch shocks. Good horse. Every day at the end of rough riding day, I tell my bike "Good job. You did well today".

I arrive at Creel. I noticed that there is a gas station. I relax. Buy a street burrito that this little girl is selling. The burrito she pulled out of the ice box, already wrapped had just tortilla and meat. It was tiny so I ordered another burrito. This one smelled sour, tasted sour. Ok, I'm not about to have major diarrhea. I stopped eating and I head toward Barrancas del Cobre. Indeed road leading to it was curvy, bumpy, exciting, beautiful, warm, and breezy, it was in some ways better than all mountains I've been on in the Southern US.

I get to Barrancas del Cobre by 3:30pm. Ok. It took me 1.5 hours. Sunset is at 5pm. technically I have to go now. But you can't say no to this sheer beauty of mesmerizing view that leaves you completely speechless. Canyon like Grand Canyon except with more trees and it's in Mexico.  Gate guard didn't charge when I said I just want to take pictures. So even took a selfie. Walked all points of view areas available. Time to go before it gets dark. It's 4pm. I better hurry. I hurried. Going over 110mph at straight shots, sharper lean angle. A white pick-up truck followed me close, I got little bit worried. Nobody around just me and this truck who is driving very close and carving the mountain like me.

Well, I took off long ways when I did that 110mph straight shot. Adios muchachos. Although they tried again and again. Could never keep up. At one point, I even waited. Love this bike's power, agility and torque. I feel in full control of the road, my speed and go to points. Rumble of the Twin Cam engine vibration, deep exhaust explosion whenever I pull the throttle regardless of which gear. Calm yet rough rumbles at idle. It sounds like a very mean horse who is barely tamed telling me come on let's run again, let's keep running.

It likes to thrive at 3.5 to 5,000 rpm. Even with that immense 110 cubic inch, it doesn't like to play in low rpm. It lets me know, "come on either shift down or give it a gas!” By the time I came back to Creel it was 5pm. I came half an hour too early. I pulled into this gravel road and take a look at this giant rock. Yes. I've gotten very used to that gravel road now.

One thing this trip. Gravel road and slippery road are bit more comfortable for me.

As it was getting dark, I needed to find a place where I can park my bike and stay indoor to keep myself warm.  Preferably somewhere with Wi-fi. I went to downtown asked the local. It was a Mexico version of internet cafe. I couldn't look over my bike which has my luggage on. So I left and decided to chill at the Western style decorated with bar, restaurant, brewery, Best Western Hotel. Majority were all decorated with log cabin style.

Although night gets to 50 degrees, wearing my Alpinestars New Land Gore Tex kept me so warm since it is built for cold winter riding with cold wind constantly hitting me, sitting still was very warm. I had couple beers and finally put the iPad into a good use of writing this blog.

At exactly 7pm. I called Monica, my couchsurfing host. Although she is the only real couchsurfer in this town, I decided to write her because of her choice to leave the city to be with simple life hippie style. She answered the phone. Sent me her address. It was dark. Cold. Paved road became a gravel road. Once I found her, she lived on a hill, it was too rocky and sandy along with too steep to take my bike to her doorstep. So I left it by the gate.

As soon as I unpacked. We walked to the Best Western Hotel and ordered couple pizza and beer. We shared meaningful conversation, shared each others histories and came back to her house. There we continued our conversation about our passion and future plans. I asked to see her school and she gladly accepted When we got tired, she showed me how to turn on the broiler to heat the water for shower.

I slept like a baby under thick blankets.

Motorcycle Diary - Northern Mexico Day 3

I opened my eyes. Check the time. It's 6am. It's still dark outside. I check the weather app. It's going to be sunrise in half an hour. I slowly get up. Headache is gone. Yay!.

I check the Google Map for today's plan. Last night I wrote down entire Itineary of this trip right before falling asleep.

Fri: Home to Lake Fausse
Sat: Lake Fausee to Eagle Pass, TX
Sun: Eagle Pass, TX to Torreon
Mon: Torreon to Chihuahua
Tues: Chihuahua to Creel
Wed: Creel to Nuevo Casas Grande
Thur: Nuevo Casas Grande to White Sand to Balmorrea state park
Fri: Balorrea State Park to Houston
Sat: Houston to Home

Let's see if everything goes to plan.

Google Map shows I have two stops before I go to Chihuahua. Zona del Silencio and Crystal Cave. A years back, I read in the National Geographic about Crystal Cave being discovered. In the picture crystals were so huge that people looked tiny. It was fascinating and I remembered that it was in Northern Mexico. This was one of the trigger point to make this trip other than I bought a brand new S model Harley Davidson with two years of unlimited miles warranty.

I figured I will get to Chihuahua in no time considering the road willl be like yesterday. Well paved, tollway with unlimited speed limit. So I decided to take a detour and take a local road. Indeed local road was so much fun, run down houses, happy people, many people stairing at me as I go by as if they are seeing a Ferrari or something special.


If you are a man, I you head turned as I go by you. If you are a man and your head didn't turn then you are blind. This is how all people turned their head. I was getting way too much attention everywhere I go. Also could be a target. I analyzed that, they willl have to catch me in the open road where nobody is around. But then I will be too fast for anything to catch me. No gun law for citizens in Mexico. Plus, if you are ambitious enough to steal my bike, there are plenty of bigger fishes like SUVs and nice trucks. Second, you will have to know how to ride this big bike coming from usual 125cc's in Mexico. Third, only time I stop in the open road is when I am sure i'm the only one on the road. In the city there are too many eyes.

I've been enjoying this scenary of local road for about an hour or two. Then I wonder if this road will eventually end up at the tollway because I start to see less houses, less people, just farms. What do you know, the road turns to gravel. I go on it. It's way too bumpy. I've already noticed my front tire is going bold. This gravel road doesn't help at all. It will only wear it out faster. I stand up on two pegs like adventure bike riders. I feel uncomfortable. Too strenouse to my wrist. It's an unnatural posture.

Then I put both legs on the passenger pegs. Now too much pressure on my shoulder. Then one leg on the front peg, one leg on the passenger peg then I rotate legs, I now good. Some what having fun. Can't stop to wonder how long this gravel road is going to be, maybe I should turn around. I pull over and check the Google Map. No connection. I connect to hotspot of the nice phone. Connected but not loading. I pull out the nice phone. I got a text message from verion that I reached my daily limit. Msg came at 7:30am. WTF!.  How did I use up all data by7:30am. What am I gonna do the rest of the day. Thankfully, preloaded map worked.

I came too far, more than half way. I don't have enough gas to turn around.  Enough to go forward. I suck it up and go. Some truck drivers waive hello with smile.  By the time I've gotten used to this road and thinking that no more small local roads like this. I brought a wrong bike of this. I start to see cars moving fast distant horizon. I get excited. Check the gas gauge. Quarter tank left.

Finally made it out of gravel road, got gas, drove straight to Zona del Silencio.  I saved this place only because it had a cool name, then John told me that no planes can fly over this area. Gas station guy said there is "magnitude" here. That's why it's called Silent Zone. And of course, it's a gravel road. Let's just go up the hill. It's not a bumpy gravel road. Ok, Let's go little more. because supposedly main point is much deeper on this road. I see a gate arch and a sign. Ok I've had enough of this. I park. I take care of both my bathroom duties. Remain calm. I hear wind and insects. No sound of human. I relax here for awhile. Take pictures. Investigate what happened with data consumption. I changed setting, deleted many apps, turn off notification, looked into all suspicious possible data hogging apps. I should be ok now.

I call people in the US to check on few things, return phone calls.

Then all of sudden, I hear something. It's a vehicle. I hurry up and get equipped. By the truck shows up, I've just started the engine. Truck driver looks at me and continues to move on. I go the other way. It's becoming to be a sandy road more toward middle of nowhere into the desert. My bike don't do well in the sand. It's heavy, mean Harley Davidson built for paved road. I turn around. I head toward Naica to be near the Crystal Cave that's been closed after I take some pictures of the goat.

 Naica is a beautiful small town. Very weird that there is a town so far away from everything. And! the road is paved all the way. Very bumpy. but not complaining for that condition after what I've been through today.


Leading to Naica, you can see large fields of land that's flat, filled with yellow grass. In distant you can see horses running, walking and eating freely. Using up this massive large land on both sides of the road. There was a military camp.

I pulled up to a mini store to ask for the Crystal Cave. I didn't know how to save Cave in Spanish. Can't use the phone since it's out of data. I said crystal cave. The store man didn't understand and told me sorry that he doesn't understand. Then he jumped and pointed to his water, "Crystal Water" bottle. No!.... "Este lugar famoso para..." then he jumped again and said "Cueva de Crystal". That sounded right. I high fived him. He said "pase dos cuadras, a la derecha" I repeated what I said. He said yes. I said thank you and left.

At my destination, there was a security check. People coming out of the gate were wearing orange jump suit. There was couple guys in business casual. I spoke with one of the guy about entering. He said it's closed. I said I know it's fillled with water but I still wanted to get closer and see. He says "no se puede" I take some pictures of the entry way, pictures around the town. Then I left to go see about those horses running freely. By the time I got there, there way too far from the road. I got a video of couple horses not knowing what to do with me.

By the time I arrived in Chihuahua it was close to sunset. The person I was supposed to meet up went MIA. I changed to my clear visor and roamed around town looking for a good place to sleep. First two I checked out charged same price as motel from last night but only for four hours.

Sun is now long gone, only the street lights are lit. I am completely lost. Don't know which way is North or South. Which direction I came from. Too many one way streets. I'm thirsty. I pull into Oxxo and ask a guy walking, "Disculpa, donde puedo encontrar internet?" he looked surprised like what you don't have a smarphone? He asked if I am looking for a computer? I said no I just need wifi. Then he says, Oxxo has free wifi!

And he was right. I found some motels. Called to verfiy price. Then I found a cheaper one than yesterday. $280 pesos. About $15USD. Jackpot. I go. It's same style. Private garage into your bedroom. They even have wifi. The person who led me in was very nice. He said you can go down the street to find food.

After I got situated, I went down to see only restaurant in this block. Prices are good. Two older gentlement eating, a man and a woman working the kitchen. I order some tacos. The man asks, "algo para tomar?"  I said "cerveza" he looked me surprised and said they don't sell alcohol. Only the cross the street Oxxo sell. So I walk over to Oxxo. Bought three big bottles of beer because I didn't want to be the only one drinking, pretentious foreigner showing off. I brought beer and asked the restaurant man, if he has any cups. He says no. I said "como podriamos compartir cerveza? no puedo beber todo" I'm only going to drink this bottle. Rest we share.

My food is served. I began eating and drinking. They started talking. Still nobody touching the beer. What you don't like me? You guys don't drink? Too shy? You thought I was just kidding?

The man next to me, who is about finished eating glimpsed at the beer, I said "bebemos! Dale!" Other guy also says go ahead. He opens the bottle. Leaving one remained. I got the hint that he was saving it for the restaurant guy. Then this guy starts to talk to me in English that they are truck drivers. I asked if he drinks every day. Restaurant guy translates that every other day because both men are drivers and they take turns driving. Pointing to semi truck parked across the street at Oxxo parking lot.

Resturant guy and I began talking. He says he lived in Texas for 10 years. Pennsylvania for 4 years and Brookly. Total 20 years in US. He went go renew his driver license and then immigration deported him. That was two weeks ago now he is working in this restaurant as an employee. Other people didn't seem to have a clue what we were talking about. I'm down with my food and beer. I'm ready to go. I told him drink this beer. Return these bottles for the pesos. Because I told him sorry. He said "it's life" I shook his hand, I got teary eyes. Left him handful of tip. I left quickly.

I arrange my things, make sure things are charged up. Wifi is too slow to do anything with.

Motorcycle Diary - Norther Mexico Day 2

Saturday

Left lake Fausse in a hurry. Luckily I didn’t grave any Park ranger confronting me. As soon as I left the park, I needed to find gas and my navigation phone(old iPhone 6s) but it was dead. So I pulled over middle of the road to connect it to my battery pack. Found the gas station on the map, only 20 miles away and the bike says I can go 29 miles. After about 7 min of riding around the corner turn, I hear something clinking. Figured I ran over something. Looked at my front pouch and it was open! I pull over immediately and the battery pack is gone. Turned around. Don’t see it on the road. Did one more run, I don’t see it. Pulled over and walked to look at the side of the road but still don’t see it. Shit. I need my battery. Also running low on gas. Went and got gas and came back, this time went all the way to where I plugged the battery. Nada. It’s gone. Navigation phone is dead now. Pulled out the the phone (iPhone X) which I don’t really want to use it as navigation because the phone gets hit by all kinds like dirt, bugs, debris. Went to Walmart and bought a same battery pack (Anker Power core 20,000). Made sure to close the front pouch. Long straight freeway ride to Houston then San Antonio. Hardly took any break other than bathroom break at rest area. Mapped out my itinerary to stop at In and Out burger in San Antonio and then Twisted Sister which is about an hour north west of San Anton, known as one of the best motorcycle road in US.

When I arrived In and out, I was tired. Ordered double-double. By the time I was finished eating, it was 5pm. By the time I arrive at Twisted Sisters, it would be sunset. Not an ideal situation to enjoy the best motorcycle road in US. I will stop by on the way back from Mexico. Spent a good amount of time looking for camping near he border. Nothing available. Found a cheap motel, Knights inn at Eagle Pass, TX. Border town. Made reservation via hotel.com

Still have one more hour to go, it’s already pitch black. Stopped at the gas station, now I see more Latinos and hear Spanish all around me. One guy on a sportster waves as he was leaving the gas station.
 

It’s one lane road with the occasional two-lane road for passing. This Chevy sedan just goes fast enough to slowly pass cars but not fast enough, leaving all others behind with me right behind. After about 20 min, finally see an opening, he just needs to move over but he ain’t. I come close but nothing. All these time, there was mustang GT behind me also who has been giving me enough space behind but consistently staying right behind me. He sees me not getting though comes a little close to me. I move over as a sign to let him pass. ‘Here, you try instead’ and he does as if he read my mind, he gets close to that car, revs up his engine loud several times. The car finally moves over and I follow him close immediately as two lane road is merging. I blink by emergency light once to thank him and he signals right once to say “you’re welcome”

It’s always the muscle car drivers sees me on the road as if we connect at a higher level. We give each other respect. Even when we race one another it’s for sport. But those luxury car drivers, soccer mom sedans, SUVs are opposites. Trucks are hit and miss.

Finally arrived in Eagle Pass. I see bright lights. Once I get to the hill, I see even concentrated brighter lights farther way, that’s Piedra Negras, MX. I unpacked all my stuff, laid the, on the bed. Took a picture. Amazing how all these fit in my hiking back pack and still have room.

Sunday.

It was one of the most comfortable bed in a under $50 motel. The nice hot shower also helped. Left a 5-star review. I was a bit nervous about border crossing as I only brought my Green Card with fake Mexican insurance and fake letter from financier of the bike, a letter from Chief of Harley Davidson financial services permitting me to take the bike to Mexico. I get to customs area, left is Mexico, right is US. I went left. The way led to toll booth, lady says 3 dollars in poor English. I asked where the customs was. She looked me weird and said you pay and go to Mexico. I said Dont I need to check in with US Customs? She didn’t understand. But she said you can turn around. So this time I made the right turn, there was nothing, it’s just a road to go elsewhere. I went back and asked the security guard looking guy, with his poor English he says, you pay the toll, cross the bridge and then check in at Mexico. So I paid the toll. As I was crossing the bridge I see lines of Carson the other bridge. After crossing the bridge, what it appears to be Mexican custom. But nobody stopping me or guiding. I stop and ask the people with weapons. “Donde puedo conseguirme permiso de mi vehiculo” they say go 50 km and there is ‘allenda’. I don’t know what that is. I went forward, I see all Spanish signs. I’m in Mexico. I went to gas station and said “llena por favor” the guy asked “verde?” I see that Green is Magna 87 octane, red Premium 91 octane. I said “la roja”
 

I follow my navigation to Cuatro Cinegas. There was nothing but desert and big warehouses, run-down houses, people standing on the side big enough for five lane road without lines and a big Corona factory.

Along the way I go through small towns, people riding small 125cc motos. Occasionally I see riders with superbikes, metric bikes, I assume they are Americans and I lift my left arm, the lift theirs back. A typical two wheeler tradition.

As I go through small towns, I am mesmerized by the beauty of the ghetto town, undeveloped fields, cows, sheeps, goats running free and horses tie down. The road narrows as I am in downtown of a small town. I see smoke at the corner. Someone’s barbecuing. I pull over and asked if the meat is ready, they say I have to go inside and buy the meats f bring it out. The girl at the store helped me bypass the long line. As I was waiting for the meat to cook, a guy at my age starts talking to me. We exchanged conversation and took pictures together. The girl is keep looking at me, I look at her back then she looks the other way. One old guy started asking me questions why I am traveling alone. I said my friends say Mexico is dangerous and they say no money. He responds back for force, yes it’s dangerous. You need a “companero” then he lectures me on and on about how I should find a pareja, telling me that I have “las lanas” I understood it as money. I said I work very hard. He talked too fast to understand so I just nodded and smiled. Then I saw couple of Harley riders all covered and blacked out, riding fast and making loud pipe noise, I waive. They jerked a little as if they were surprised to see me and waived back in a typical biker left arm.

The girl gave me the steak and asked if I want to go inside to eat, that inside was where butcher was cutting the meat, I ate this tough over cooked t bone steak that I bought for 3 USD.

As I continue to head south, I see many trucks with Texas license plate. I get to the tollway. As I don’t want any legal trouble, I drive at a speed limit which is 70km. Way too slow. I see all these Texas trucks passing by very fast. So eventually I follow.

 I arrive at Cuatro Cinegas, it just a bit bigger town, can’t find any signs for sightseeing that I planned. I’m not too worried as I am enjoying the view of the real Mexico. All the street people are staring at me. Many men are and kids are staring at me. My all blacked out Alpinestars outfit and all black Harley Davison low rider S is a definite head turner for guys and that deep rumbling exhaust is nothing to compare to their 125cc bikes. I occasionally nod at them, waive at kids and get on my way.

As I left the Cuatro Cinegas immediately, I see nothing but fields with mountains lines far far away that it looks blurry, clear sky, every time I pull over to take a picture I am sweating. Close by I see mounds of hills. Amazing. Beautiful. Speechless. I’m so glad I’ve decided to come to Mexico.

Now it’s an open road. Strong smell of asphalt, then I see road work. Building road. After hours of riding, I get tired, sleepy, the heat doesn’t help. I pee on the side of the road, pee is solid yellow. I feel headache. I must be dehydrated. Chugged two bottles of water, smoke a cigarette and get on my way. Nobody is going speed limit. In fact I’m going 80 to 110 mph. I finally hit 120mph. I’ve been trying but it takes too long. As Harley known for their torque and never mentioning the horsepower. Torque is for quickness, sudden burst of speed. Horsepower is for top speed.

I arrived at my destination, San Pedro. I arrived too early. So I decided to go further. I stop by Oxxo with large window to look over my bike. I call few motels to check prices and decided to go to Motel Eden because they said 370 pesos ($20 USD). A large metal gate awaits. When the gate opens, lady told me go go to 34. There is a garage per room, I park. She stares at me. I say “que hacemos” what do we do? She says “me pagas” pay me. She says you can’t leave once you are here. I say “but I need to go out and eat” she talks to someone is walkie tokie. She says you can’t leave but we have food service here.

From the garage to the door is a bedroom. Wow. Hotel quality nice. King size bed, large mirror, table leather chairs, no closet. I see the menu, beer is about $1.30 per bottle, food is 40 to 60 pesos. I figured they are more of an a appetizer so I order two food and two beer. I should ordered one because it was a large plate of food.

I drank and ate like a king. Then I get an extreme headache. Felt paralyzed because not moving is only time I didn't have a headache. 

I tried searching the web. I concluded that I am feeling high blood pressure. It mentions what things to avoid. I've taken them all. Greasy food, alcohol, not enough water, smoke, fatigue, no intake of vegetables. 

Let's get a good night of sleep.