Had several options for entering amazon. After checking out some blogs and lonely planet decided to go to parque Noel kempff mercado. This is known for most difficult to enter, most exotic, unbeaten path. It was chance to see exotic animals.
Took a 20 hour bus ride from La Paz to Santa Cruz. From the Plaza in Santa Cruz, went to the terminal, then angelica took charge and we went behind through the tunnel to find bargain deal. There were colectivos in the back instead of buses. Angelica is very good at getting what she wants and negotiation. We make a great team for that.
Spent a night in concepcion. Ben and I had street food, we both got diarrhea. We missed the morning bus to go to San Ignacio. Since we didn't find any tour company or way to get up to Florida (destination) from concepcion, we must go to San Ignacio.
Next bus is not for another 6 hours. Thankfully We hitch hiked. The nice driver told us that he traveled Europe with a back pack. We told him that we are heading to Parque Noel Kempff. He told us he is going close to Florida. Showed us where it is on the map. Great. We then was dropped off at Santa Maria, small village of about six families. We took a new road which opened in december 2011. we moved faster than I had anticipated we would move. Later upon leaving amazon I learned that travel time between concepcion and San Ignacio is about 5 hours.
From Santa Maria, we ordered a drink at the shop, used well water (bomba) to wash our face, arm, and neck. The road is not paved from concepcion and car had both windows open. You could see clear line where our sun glasses were. Three drunk people in a car came to the store where we were. I asked them to take us to Florida, after few chat we agreed for 200 bs. Angelica was excited. Then grew worrisome when the shop owner was walking toward drunks.
"let's hurry. We got a good deal and I dont want that guy to talk to them"
But it was too late, deal broke off and they left.
I was upset but since he has a car front of the shop and we were sitting at his bench table. I held back. This shop owner had an attitude, cocky or confident. Deeply leaned back on his wooden chair sharpening his knife while his rifle leans against the wall next to him. I embraced, kept my enemy closer by giving him the beer that I just purchased for the drunks.
He then offered to take us for 900 bs. I was rediculed after I calculated what a reasonable price should after calculating with distance, gas price, gas per milage( with km) and added 25% profit for them came out to 220bs. So I wrote this on a piece of paper to negotiate with him, then I saw cloud of dust coming from the road, Angelica ran out to the road, she then told us to get our bags. This truck is going toward Florida. It was a big logging truck. He was coming from Santa Cruz to pick up trees in the forest where located in right turn from la Mechita, first left after second bridge. We arrived in a big open ar ea, there were many big logs laying down, gea and huts. There were people living in the tents. A guy who is in charge, Marcial gave us mattress to sleep on. The lady brought us chicken soup with rice. We were very greatful.
Next day, Marcial told us that we would be going with ToCaYo. He was different than Marcial and the rest of the people. He came into the the kitchen hut where we slept. He looked at us and that was it. I was certain that he knew why we were here. Later learned that he was in charge of whole operation. Him and Marcial seemed to be the only ones who have cars. We waited all morning, because they were working. Towards the mid afternoon I walked toward ToCaYo. He walked towards the area where all the workers chilling, he positions himself by leaning against the table and crossing his arms.
"ToCaYo. Si usted va para florida, Podríamos ir contigo?"
"No, es solo para empleados"
"vale" i said
I walked away. Th en all the guys yelled, made gestures that it was a joke and we are leaving soon, get your bags. Angelica sat inside and Ben and I were on the bed of the truck. We were quite enthused for hitch hiking all the way to Florida. Getting to Florida took about an hour.
We got dropped off at this house. Angelica expressed annoyance because ToCaYo and other people in the car were saying really mean things about Marcial. This house was a hostel, owned by ToCaYo's sister., Doña Adel. They had a telephone that was powered by sun light. Beds with wooden floor. Price was written on the wall. 10 desayuno, 15 bs y cena. 30 bs persona por la noche. We ordered lunch. Then jumped into the river to wash off all the dirt and sweat that we accumulated for 2 days and a half. We washed clothes in the river, hung them on the fence then ate fish, rice and veggies. That night a generator that powers entire town turned on, we charged our technologies and was greeted by big bellied, two front tooth, coca leaves on the side of mouth, half laying, half sitting mid aged man offered us a service to drive us to the park
He charges 900 bs round trip. And if we want him to wait for us at the base camp, it is $100 per day.
Next day we found a guide, he was the president of Guide association. Apparently there are 18 guides in this small town, probably 25 families.
His price was 160 bs per day. Tent was 20 bs per day, 15 bs for sleeping may per day.
We stayed at Doña adel's For two days and had two lunches, one diner and a breakfast. Gradually quality and amount of food decreased so we ate less.
Eve of our departure, Ben and I had San Pedro, psychedelic, taught Ben how to throw up.
"I can't never lore myself to throw up" said Ben
"finger!" said Angelica while making gesture finger going into a mouth and a big smile out of amusement watching us in pain.
"dont be gross Ben, no finger necessary, just bend over, keep your face to the ground, use our stomach muscle, tell your body to throw up while making this noise, ehh" said I,
Ben threw up green liquid few times then went to his own world and so did I.
Then we were greeted with surprise visit by professor who we talked with during the day about going on a boat trip to look for piraña and cayman (aligator). It wad exciting and exotic. Here we are at one the most remote place in Bolivia, inside amazon, on a metal boat that leaks, bright moon above us surrounded by bright stars of the southern hemsphere, air filled with birds and insects singing and we are quietly paddling. Saw birds, fish jumping, cayman running away from us with loud noise, huge turtle shells on the shore and its egg shales. We finished the night with beers.
Journey to the parque Noel kempff mercado began at 7:30am. It started with crossing a river with man powered ferry. It was exciting to watch the process and a car driving across with two wooden boards. Then we started seeing fallen trees blocking the road. Driver told us that they have not gone through this road sine August. I helped with machete. It was hard work, I was drenched with sweat. The car was Mitsubishi SUV but it was not 4x4. Road conditions were better than what we read in blogs, about cars getting stuck and having to push. That never happened. I just assumed because we came at the end of the dry season. At one point, we were stuck by road block, there were swarms of honey bees all over our face even crawling inside our shirts. I got stung twice. By the time we reached Los fierros, it was getting dark. When we were forming a deal, driver told us 450 one way to take us to the base camp but we said just to the Los fierros because we wanted to spend a night there and see the animals, which meant driver was going back but since we arrived so late, driver stayed the night then offered us 100 bs to take us to the base camp. I found this ironic.
In Los fierros there are abandoned houses, ones with beds and others with kitchen and dining room area. It was not maintained. There were cayu trees yielding fruits. We took some fruits off tree. Due to these sweet fruits falling from trees, I assume for the reason why there were so many ants. They crawled into shoes and bite. At one point, our bags we left on kitchen table and our food was filled with ants. There were Mosquitos too. We went on our night walk and saw snakes, birds and paw print of jaguar.
Next morning I had a hArd time getting out of my tent due to the swarming bees around the tent. I had to carefully get out, dust off bees of my shoes, moved tent to uninstall the tent. I have never been surrounded by so many bees in my life. I blamed this for the fruit trees. From Los fierros, we started our hike and Immediately saw two foxes. We walked around fallen trees. Then there was open area where there are no tall trees to block the sun. This area was called las pampas. The whole had been burned by fire and only small trees were there and they all had black suits on barks. It was hot, long walk with all our food in the backpack. We walked this for 4 hours. By the time we got to our El arroyo, a camping spot it was late afternoon. I preferred to go to the base camp, las lajas but our guide was in pain in his crotch from new blue jeans he had been wearing for trekking. We drank the water from the stream and made fire and food. When we walk, there are no bugs around us but once we sit down, all the flies are around us. From common flies, to mosquitos and black wasps. I had to make decision whether to inhale fire smoke and be away from bugs or the opposite. It was not pleasant but seeing wild monkeys on trees brought us to excitement.
Next day, we arrived in las lajas, it was one hour away. It was beautiful, there was giant rock bed size of four semi truck beds. We continued our hike toward la meseta, the plateau where exotics animal live.
Upon arriving to La Meseta, we shed sheer joy of grand view. View was absolutely astounding, better view than templo 6 in Tikal., Guatemala. Everything is flat except for where we were standing. It felt as if i was looking down the world. We marched toward our campsite, looking for animals and continued to amazed by the beautiful landscape of la meseta. We found water in the valley. Water was the cleanest we have had in our journey. After an hour of hike, we arrived in la meseta and learned that we don't have enough time to cover and explore la meseta thoroughly, especially the north side. However having a vehicle would be wonderful. There aren't any roads, just trails. This rarely visited, remote place, who receive less than 100 visitors per year had trails all around. Our guide Candido explained and told us stories of research teams and Noel Kempff Mercado. He spent a long time up here,,4-5 years. Then he was killed by cocaine lab people.
We saw deer that only lives in la meseta, snake and more bees. I did not see nearly as many animals as I hoped, expected for visiting amazon, nor did I think of it as mostly land and hiking up. I pictured being on a boat, crushing through reeds. That was fun in Florida, but not as exciting or adventuresome as this one. Apparently I have to come back in rainy season to see more variety of animals and fruits. Seeing guacamayo was our highlights, everytime it flies above us and make its noise, we would get excited. Their feathers colors known to be representation of amazon. Blue, yellow, red. Next day we went on a journey to find their next and see them closer. This day, before sun set, we went to a natural swimming pool. There was spot to jump into the water, there was fish but no snake.
When we got back to our camping spot we were extremly happy for less bugs flying around us. We are nothing more than food in the jungle, my body would serve many animals and insects with leaving nothing behind. Next day one by one, those black bees started to show up, not as extreme as below the la meseta. We were still scratching mosquito bites, at this point we can't tell what's what. Our insect repellent spray is almost gone which we bought in local market in Concepcion. We have red spot on our body everywhere from mosquito, ants and ticks. Yes ticks, Angelica who refuses to kill any insects and gladly share her blood with Mosquitos, reached her limit with ticks. These tiny six legged red bug with super strong jaw and back. Pushing it directly on to my skin won't kill. Pulling off my body, it grabs onto my skin so tight that it's jaw keeps grip of my skin only the body get pulled off. They are size of micro dot that you take for LSD. 1.5 -2x size of sesame seed. Longer they stay on your body, bigger they are. They can cause lime disease. They go to remote places of your body. I didn't feel them moving on my body and don't feel them biting or sucking my blood. Only though my eyes, I discover them. Under my knee joint, arm pit, my butt, neck behind hair, thigh, chest, belly, everywhere. I got paranoid and frequently checked my genital area. All three of us checked each other, but somehow thy continued to appear.
"ewwww, kill it! Disgusting!" said all of us frequently.
Killing process of quite careful because once they have been successfully removed from the body alive, then they move fast to run away from fingertips. I discovered that put them on my fingernail and use fingernail to terminate them. If I just push with my fingertip they don't die. Certainly stepping on them with my shoes won't help nor slamming a book at them.
After swimming for half hour, I went on a search for ingrown hair in my thigh instead, I found ticks, found a white, bloated one, still alive. So I learned that I couldn't drown them. They continued to exist on our body until we got to civilization.
Came down to la roya where our driver Enrique promised to pick us up at 11am. We got picked up at 1pm. When he arrived, he couldn't clear one tree so we walked to his car. It took an hour to get by las pampas. There were tree fallen from today already. Showed extreme speed of amazon, survival of fittest world amongst trees.
When we got back, Enrique offered to take us to nearest village hut where we can take 7am bus to go to San Ignacio. It's 70km away and he wanted charge 300 boliviano. So we said forget it. We washed ourselves in the river and our clothes. Had dinner and slept in the tent again. It was cheaper, we were used to sleeping in the tent by now and most importantly No Mosquitos. Dona Adele's hostel is filled with Mosquitos. Mosquitos nets are too small to cover the whole bed, I had a keep my thighs touching my stomach, knees touching my chest to sleep or be exposed to Mosquitos. I hear them wheezing near my ears, crawling through holes through crappy mosquito net. It sucked.
Next day, we asked around for a ride. Dona Adele suggested ToCaYo. It turned out that Enrique is Dona Adele s husband, ToCaYo is Dona s brother. One family business they have tourists. I wanted to support other locals. Found other place to eat, in fact they had a sign outside their house. This house was two blocks away from where we were. Service and food was twice the amount for same price and even served us unlimited limonada and juice.
Compared to tiny plate of food sometimes lack of food, this was hostel vs five star hotel! I would definitely go back. Lady s name was Ignacia Peña. But turned out I didn't go back because we found a way out of town. It was not ToCaYo. ToCaYo first said no not today, maybe tomorrow. Later in the day, he said for hundred dollars, he would take us to the small village (campo) where we can take a bus to San Ignacio next day at 7am.
I was rediculed by his price and his attitude but I remained calm and asked if he meant 100 bolivianos then he says no, he said hundred dollar or 700 boliviano. I was annoyed after spending lots of money to his sister ad her husband, this guy showed no gratitude nor kind gesture. We respectfully refused. Later he came to me when I was doing my laundry in the river and childishly gossiping to me about our guide Candido being gay and that he hoyos un with turistas. What are we? Are we in middle school? Aren't you too old to talk shit behind someone in a small town, front of kids and other ladies doing laundry. I smiled and asked
"Como tu sabes que el es gay? Probaste gay? Con el?" (How do you know he is gay, did you try men)
With smirk, holding his huge beer belly, leaning against his fat butt on my laundry board, he said he has and started talking about Candido s wife. I have had enough with him so ignored him and walked away. I wanted to tell him insult 'don't be a peasant, don't be a Indio' to him but since I have not figured out my ride situation, i held back. Later I went to grocery store next to field and Candida's house, the owned told me he is out of beer. So I asked him if he is going to get more, he said yes. Then we arranged for pay him 100bs per person to take us to San Ignacio. It was not bad considering it's 7 hours away. It was good deal for all of us.
We left town at 9pm. All three of us and two more guys on the back of a truck. Turned out it was Marcial who was driving. Back of truck was very uncomfortable and small to fit all five of us. However at 1am we stopped in little town, awoke young man out of his bed to sell us beer. Now bed of truck for five people didn't seem so small. I only bought 5 beers for three of us. Enough to give us buzz. But the owner of the grocery store, who scored beer money from me, bought lots of beer and shared with us. Soon all five of us were drunk, smoking lots of cigarette, chewing on lots of coca leaves and passed out except or Ben.
Next day we took a bus to Santa Cruz. Good bye amazona where lack of options and countless bugs. I have seen so many insects that I have never seen in my life. Countless swollen red marks on my body, soon to be gone.
Found couple more ticks on my body in Santa Cruz. Biggest one yet to see.
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