Life of Chisung Lee

Friday, June 22, 2012

Motorcycle road trip Quito Ecuador to maracaibo Venezuela

I have been on long distance, fast traveling road trip with a hurry. Goal was to get to Maracaibo, Venezuela from Quito Ecuador. In three days. Instead it took five days

Everything was expected because I have been in this road before. I was moving slow or I set a unrealistic goal. After grueling bumpy ride and fast moving, bike chain got lose and fell off. I quickly put then back on. Bicycle riding days in my youth reminded me how to put the chains on. I hired this kid to tighten it. Paid $1000 pesos. After fifteen min I noticed something is wrong with the bike, as I'd something's dragging the rear tire I thought alignment was not set correct. It's dark so I decided to sleep off on this cheap motel in small town that Name of it doesn't exist on the map. Next day I saw a mechanic, I explained, he had test drive, tightened bolts on the middle of the bike, then problem solved. I asked how much he shyly said tip, I told him to name a price so he said $2000 cop, I gladly paid.

I saw the most incredible view third best next to grand canyon and yellow stone in south of colombia and north of Ecuador. Near pasto.

I arrived in pereira around 730pm. I was behind schedule due to bad traffic in Cali. However I was glad that I arrived in pereira just as sin went down. By now I am accustomed to ride in the dark but don't like. My lights are dim, still don't have protective gear for my eyes for the night. I was annoyed when thd bug hit my left eye.

I think it dries and damages my contacts very fast.

I met with CS member. I unpacked, showered, then we went out to eat, drink and talk then we went home. We might see each other in the future.
I think it's the first time that I had just one night and left in the morning.

Left pereira couple hours later than I wanted. Got lost in manizales. Plus it was Sunday so part of the road was closed for the runners and walkers.

I got to the mountain path, it started raining, as I kept going up, it got colder. Last time I was in this condition of freezing body And wet road I crashed my bike and ripped my leather jacket. It was a typical mountain stretch. I didn't stop to add extra clothes to save time knowing the fact that I will be going through hottest part of Colombia.

When I was at the hot part el dorado, I bought a bag a mango then I realized $50,000 bill COP I thought I had was not there. That changed many of my plan for gas, room and food.

I arrived in bucaramanga around 9pm.
Found Internet. Contacted CS member. Due to my fast pace or lack of planning or keeping up with my Ambitious plAn, I only had two half assed contact and one phone number from CS. He didn't offered to host me when I called so i found a hostel. There I signed this hostel up for wehostels, and met with young German traveller. Who exchanged dollar for me to pay the hostel. At this point I only have $5900 COP, $120 USD. I thought with a half tank of gas I would make it to Venezuela border and exchange my dollars. It was longest stretch of mountain tops, including one hour wait for the road work. I was cold, way behind schedule because this day I am supposed to arrive in Maracaibo. cold mountain required more gas than I anticipated and I was running really low on gas which slowed me down. Survived with one house selling ACPM to make it out of the cold tops. I spent whats left of me pesos for half a gallon of acpm. At the valley I exchanges money at kitchen equipment shop who bought a dollar with 1600 pesos for.So I exchanged just enough to buy food and gas.


Once I arrived at the border, usual lines, money exchange, traffic slowed me down. It was around 3pm by the time I finished exchanging my $5000 pesos. Dollar could not be exchanged. So I had $25 bolivares.

I was getting back on the road then google direction and locals told me to go to a small mountain villages where no cars go by, steep, curvy. I was surprised that google knew this road. It was definitely a hidden shortcut.

My bike started having chain issues again and I was annoyed because I fixed this near el pasto en Colombia.
Which was few days ago. Which slowed me down and at this point I am so certain that I have a long drive to do at night and I only have 25 bolivars in my pocket and $100usd.

Fixed chain issue, nice tire shop
Guy did it for me for free. Then rear dragging problem occurred, stopped at another tire shop around 8 pm, he did it for free as well. Went to gas station, in this town they required chip to pump gas, so nice family guy with husband and kids gave me gas for free. By this time I am once again thankful for kindness in this country. I stopped in La fria to look for hotel to sleep because it's 9pm, barely anyone on the highway, I sense the danger. No hotels would accept dollars or exchange in this small town. Finally met with street food owner after waiting for an hour. She wanted 6 bolivar for dollar. Cheapest hotel is $150b. After doing Math, I said hell no to that and decided that I cannot sleep or rest until I arrive in Maracaibo. I called my contact in Maracaibo and told my ETA. I got address. So here I go on 8 hours road trip at 10pm at night. I expect to arrive at 3 or 4am. It quickly turned out to be ambitious goal. Too dark, I must be careful, I am high alert. 95octane gas sure keeps me wide awake.
Highway was an excellent condition, paved, flat, no holes, bright lines. So I put on my sunglasses to prepare to go fast. Semi truck went by me as I was gearing up. So I followed this super fast moving semi. I saw this truck turning emergency light on super far away. Then I see big mound of dirt on the road, gravel road, and 20 feet deep empty space on the road. I could have run over the mound, fly high and land in this dark hole and died. I turned my blinkers on to thank him for saving my life.

Eventually we said hi face to face at the peaje. He is going to Maracaibo. He is about 55 years old and knows road conditions well. He warns me about the road with holes so I decided to follow him. He would turn blinkers on to tell me which direction I should go to avoid the holes. I was so glad to have met him. I can go faster, safer from both road and thieves. We were together for about two hours I think. We stopped at truck stop together.

Eventually we went separate ways because I got stopped by nacional guard. It's about 2am and these guys were bored and wanted to more than just checking my paperwork. They took me to a office room, took everything out of my bag, looked at all my coins from different country, looked all over my phone including pictures, talk down to me, strip me naked, try to scare me with possession of marijuana, didn't necessarily ask for money or try to charge me money like other cop who tried to withheld my bike from me. I told him my title and license is valid, main guy who was leading this investigation or molest pushed that I do not have valid paperwork. Then his fellow says its international, I was pretending that I speak very tiny Spanish to pick and choose what i wanted to answer or not. Some of them would ask dumb questions sometimes I completely ignored them. I repeated this process with other officers in Venezuela when they wee unprofessional with me. However 90% of them are not bright, questionable high school graduates, immature, not well educated, do not speak clear Spanish like when I have talked to crazy loud people on the city street.

I was annoyed by the fact that they are simply playing, wasting my time, not giving me credit for foreigner, riding motorcycle, pitch black street.

I told them. "tengo que irme, ustedes vieron todo mis cosas y mis papeles están bien. Es muy tarde en la noche, mi amigo en camioneta esperando para mi porque es muy peligroso para manejar la moto en la noche. Tengo que seguir mi amigo. Dejame salir"

That didn't work at least not at that moment. Eventually they got bored, let me go and told me that I can follow the bus that they are investigating.

I kept on riding. Sun is rising, it's getting brighter. I asked the vendor of street food who is preparing how far Maracaibo is. He says one hour. He suggested that I grab a coffee. I must be looking really tired. I don't have any bolivares left to buy anything. $25 bolivares I had, I bought food at the la fria.

I put on my sunglasses to prepare to go fast. Instead I found myself pulling over 5 or 6 times because I kept on falling asleep. Danger was calling. Straight road with holes and bumps, now fast moving vehicles are passing by me, some honks and shine flash high beam at me. Drivers are rough I must be close to Maracaibo.
I got some sleep, stretched, finally I arrived in city level where there is morning traffic and people walking. 7:30am Found Yoli s house, strangely faster than I expected. I was surprised my ability to find places with map and address.

I was filthy, dirty, smelled like street, dirty polluted car, my pants have not been washed for days collecting all kinds of grimes from the road. My face is black except for the part that was covered with cloth and glasses.
I washed my face, took of my lenses, slept till 4pm.


Thursday, June 14, 2012

Tight jacket and old woman

This leather jacket is designed to have a tight look. It is a tiny satin sheen, slick, lineless, simply designed, black jacket.


After 2 days wearing the backpack on the jacket whilst on the moto, it showed significant difference. Around the upper chest area and waist lines where it was tightened by the backpack showed incredible amount of small lines as it was some super old great grandmother aged woman face that had been exposed to all weather and all expression over the life.

It was significant, similar to when Dr.house suddenly discovers diagnosis through Unrelatable-like situation.

A person who look older is because they are old. Not in age but in experience. Experience of all different emotions that the face made. How many varieties and how frequent were made. they have less to do with age and more to do with depth and density.

Some are more closed guarded protected filtered with emotions to let them express with their face.

Some are more absorbent, sensitive, permeable with emotions to let them express with their face a lot.

After all body language majority of communication and is more real and honest.

Now I see all the people who were quite off from my guess

Motorcycle Crash

Today I had the most extreme adventuresome dangerous motorcycle journey of my life. 135km, 6 hours, 1 crash, 1 mirror lost, 1 dent, dirt covered bike, 2 scratch in my body, ripped rain coat and leather jacket, 1 life remaining!


From La Plata to Popayan.

It started with nicely paced road with beautiful scenic route.

As I climb up the mountain ridges, it started getting foggy, drizzling rain and they were refreshing. Gave much needed appreciation to newly leather jacket which was complained upon leaving bogota due to the hot climate.

Rocky road, loose gravels were fun to avoid but with long stretch of it for hours and hours got annoying.

Top of the mountain, there were construction to build road, less rocks therefore more mud, consistent drizzling rain not to mention the rainy season, muddy road stretched for on and off for three hours.

Slippery muddy road caused the bike to fishtail but eventually got used to it.

At one point bulldozer had to build a road for me, jeep, and a truck to go across.

About 80km into it, Finally I saw the road that has been built. It was very fresh, still raining, no road signs, no lines.

There was that jeep again front of me pumping black smoke into my lungs.
On the paved road, I was faster. So I passed. After about ten min, sudden corner came out of nowhere. Sharp one. It was avoidable. But with the wet road, I didn't want to lean too far.
I knew I would go out of the road, my first crash here it comes, it was so fast.

When it was over, I got up, something was blocking my view. "shit my precious sunglasses.." I took off my helmet, my sunglasses were fine.  It was the visor of the helmet.

I got up, my vision was not focused, as of my right eye was looking at different direction than my left. I thought it was my contact lense so I rubbed my eye but didn't change. I was covered in dirt.

I assessed the damage by looking at my body first then the bike. I didn't feel hurt. Bike however different. The jeep that I passed by passed me. I was sure he would stop to ask me how I am doing but he didn't. I was ok. Just another confirmation on the world that I see.

I picked up the bike and prayed that it would start just like any other time that I dropped it. I would have hated it carry the bike in the cold rainy top of the mountain. I started driving right away. My vision was still not focused,but I figured it would eventually be ok. Just banged my head little too hard. I noticed my previous green rain jacket is ripped. Then I checked the leather jacket is also ripped. I was annoyed but thankful for it. If it wasn't for the leather jacket, it would have been blood and stitches my chest.

Mirror holder flew off as I accelerated. I then noticed handle bar on the right side is bent. That gave me a very shitty feeling. Gave me a discouragement and recognized my stupidity then regret. The feeling that I hate the most. Regret. Shit.

Time to control my emotion, have a little chat with myself.

I could have died, the ditch could have been a cliff. Bike is still running, no body parts are broken.
Would I continue to ride the bike? Yes. Am i scared to ride? No
What went wrong? Nothing, it was just an accident. I did it to myself.

Then my knee. Ankle, right side love handle started hurting, minor scratches, bumps and bruises.

As I am descending the mountain, bright sun shine welcomes me to popayan.

As I approach a block away from the hostel, there was Lindsey ordering street food. She didn't see me. Or pretending. She is probably mad at me for showing up so late. When she saw that my bike and myself covered in mud along with damage from accident, she immediately was in fast mode to take care.

I ate, told my story, showed pictures, showered, took the bike to parking lot.

Today mechanic told me he can fix the bike for 50,000cop in two hours. But I am heading off to hot spring.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Follow my heart

I must follow my leaders. I must watch all their move and read. Read biography because that's what I do best. Watch people, feel it, use my intuition to make instinctive decision for all of them shall be right only if I read many bio, read the real life and just absorbe everything in their personality and decision making reasons, goodness and selfishness then I shall my find my answer because

The reason why they became my leader is because I was naturally attracted to them. It's not we train our mind to like certain things, it is because we are at our most pure sense and natural we feel happiness gives us pleasure motivation inspiration we feel good as a peaceful as sleeping baby with no worries pain stress harmless.

So following your heart is all it takes

But who would thought that could be such a daunting scary thing to do for many people. We don't trust our judgement all the way to the core, we listen to others, depend on them, stopped making own opinion and becomes whatever but ourselves.

Bogota

Right now I am in bogota. Since the Mexico city, finally arrived in another city that it really feels like a city once again. Dirty polluted air, fast motorcycle passing by, Busy taxis running red light, hipsters, beggars, drug sellers, tourists, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, suits, fashion, etc

Intelligent, knowledgeable, open minded, all different types of people who want to be no one but themselves are here in bogota.

It is a heart of Colombia.

People here are proud of bogota and happy to be living here. They enjoy cool breeze, rain and clouds. As any other Colombians, they like to measure social rank based on education and wealth. It is one of the first question people ask.
1. Where are you from?
2. What do you do/ what did you do for work
3. What did you study

Any people who want to advance in their life in this materialistic, capitalist world money is an important subject. Because of this I know that this country is advancing fast.

Colombian women are beautiful in comparison other parts of the world I have traveled.

Generally speaking in Colombia people pay respect by saying buenas noches,, como esta, como te fuiste, que tal, que mas, etc

People outside of bogota like to talk shit about bogota that it is cold, also people are cold, busy working, not kind, robbery, traffic typical and normal impression of big city.

People in bogota like to talk shit about outsiders that cost people talk funny, fast and mumble. They say Girls in Medellin are plastics and dumb, people in Medellin sing Spanish rather than talk Spanish. They say people in bogota are more intelligent. But recognize that outside of bogota people are generally nicer and kind.

In my experience some of them are bullshit. Some of them
I agree. However my opinion
Is also biased because I met some of the most cool and unique people through couchsurfing. Yes City people think fast and act fast. I had to grow a patience in barranquilla. However I met nice kind people everywhere I went. Sometimes I wonder if it is because I am Asian.

I have been in bogota for ten days now. I like it here because of the people. For me, place is only as good as people in it.

Coming from salento, I saw dramatic temperature and climate change as well as some of the incredible views of the mountains and valleys.

I visited casa de narino equivalent to White House. Immense security. I had to make a reservation five days advance. Inside was decorated with beautiful paintings and antique furnitures. Tour guide was smart, fast, joke and spoke ok pronunciation and correct grammar. My bag was taken away along with my phone but I was able sneak in my iPhone pretending to be a music player and managed to get some photos.

There are many touristic areas but having seen many incredible touristic sites and activities. Not many things excites me nor quite memorable.

I went to the top of the mountain to see the view of the entire city. There I met two police officers. We shared cigarets, talked about marijuana and cocaine. They confessed that they smoke cocaine. I told them
About ayahuasca. They asked many questions about corea, my travel, motorcycle. I told them my experience of corrupt cops in Venezuela and cool cops on Colombia.

I saw the biggest CS gathering that I have seen, partied with them and non CS people until 3am on tuesday night.

Done some of really stupid things that I just don't want to mention and forget about.

Became a better motorcycle rider here. Dropped my bike again. It's my fourth. This time I made a scratch on muffler and bent front brake bar of the handle. Still nothing broken. One hand I'm glad to buy a smallest bike, on the other hand regret for not buying a used one.
My gear shifting is smooth and by staying in higher rpm, minimized jerking. Also I turn better and do a uturn while having someone on the bike.
So far I have given ride to six people.

I went to outside of the city to visit tabio. It was colonial and beautiful. Brick building and brick road. Colorful painting, quiet, big houses.

Did not meet see or suspected any person of a danger. Many polices and militaries makes it even more safer.

Met few really cool people through CS.

Finally got myself a part time job that I can work and travel at the same time.

Went to electronic music club and danced till a sun rise. However music that I exactly want is still hard to find.

More people tell me that I am a good dancer. I want to post it on YouTube to show my parents and friends.

Still on touch with close friends from
Seattle.

Saw Lindsey and Emily in Medellin and stayed in same hostel in salento for three days and had awahuaska with them. It was so strange and cool to suddenly run into them One by one.
Seeing Lindsey was like old time but this time without any tension and vindictiveness only with affection and friendship. I understood why I like her through our arguments. I understood her independence because now I am
Always alone and in my head a lot. I have a feeling we may see each other again once Emily goes back to states.

I really like culture of USA. Not all of them but there are type of people I like. It's harder to find them in Latin America but there is animal like instinctive behavior in Latin America that is low key, shallow but also real and natural.

I really want to taste other developed world to see if there are a country better than US.

I got piercing in bogota. Black and dark blue each ear. 14s this time.

Found a hostel that is new, clean and EMPTY. My perfect choice. Don't like hostel full of backpackers anymore.
Loving my motorcycle everyday. Seeing taxi and bus prices. My premium gas price and occasional parking fee is sexy and more than reasonable.

Few people I don't want to forget. Angelica, Tatiana and posada family.

Went to national university. The best public school. It was big an dirty. Walls were filled with political messages, ads, graffiti, el Che and art.

One student told me that these students like to fight, they divide themselves based on political party that they support also not supporting government for a new change. Reminded me of a corea 20 years ago.

Went to the two of the most expensive university in Colombia. Los Andes is a private school. I met with a graduate student who is working there. Also my CS host went to that school. Nice facility. Little over $10,000 USD a year.

Standard of living here is higher than I expected.

Most important are people here.